Nicaragua. (Delayed report October 18th to October 31st)
SORRY FOR THE DELAY GETTING MY NICARAGUAN REPORT ON THE BLOG! AS I MENTIONED BEFORE, I DIDN’T HAVE A CHANCE TO MAKE THIS REPORT ON THE ROAD AS I WAS NOT CARRYING A LAPTOP. TO BE HONEST I HAVE HAD A VERY LAZY FIRST 2 WEEKS OF MY TIMEOUT IN DUBLIN CONCENTRATING TOO MUCH ON GETTING MY MUSIC SORTED AND EATING BACK ON THE 3 OR 4 KILOS OF WEIGHT I LOST 
I WILL HAVE THE COSTA RICAN REPORT IN A DAY OR TWO FOLLOWED BY PART ONE OF MY PANAMA REPORT AND THEN STICK IN ALL THE PHOTOS ALL THE WAY BACK AS FAR AS SOUTHERN MEXICO!
SORRY AGAIN AND BEST WISHES FROM A VERY COLD DUBLIN!
WELCOME TO NICARAGUA!
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October 18th last I ran over the border from Honduras into Nicaragua crossing at Gaushule.
Staying on the Pan American highway that stretches all the way from to Alaska, some 26,000km as far as Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, at the bottom of the South American continent.
Staying on the Pan American highway that stretches all the way from to Alaska, some 26,000km as far as Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, at the bottom of the South American continent.
This distance alone one could map a route around the world.
That day I just ran 38km. There was still no let up in the rain that has been with me now for over a month, absolutely torrential for most of the day.
At least I am getting a heat break.
Nicaragua has some massive potholes, like a bomb fell in the middle of the highway.
Nicaragua has some massive potholes, like a bomb fell in the middle of the highway.
MASSIVE POTHOLES BUT THE BEST SHOULDERS IN ALL OF CENTRAL AMERICA.THE LOCALS WERE ABLE TO FISH IN THE FIELDS
It is very scarry for the runner when running on a heavily potholled road. Trucks, busses and cars take the route of less damage which more often than is in a direct line towards me. I often have to jump off the road as they straighten up onto an undamaged art of the road.
Around 4pm that first day as I trundled down the highway a middle aged man came out onto the road to greet me. He lives in the next town, Chinadenga about a days run away.
Around 4pm that first day as I trundled down the highway a middle aged man came out onto the road to greet me. He lives in the next town, Chinadenga about a days run away.
His name is Martin, a pastor who was busy building a church out in this rural area Finca Belen.
Before he rushed home, Martin invited me to stay the night on the church construction site.
Before he rushed home, Martin invited me to stay the night on the church construction site.
PASTOR MARTIN GREETS ME ON THE ROAD AND INVITES ME TO STAY ON THE NEW CHURCH CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NIGHT.
On site, workers Ariel,Miguel, Antonio and Cathy who is married to one of the men made me feel comfortable. Cathy and her husband live here.
CATHY AND HER HUSBAND PREPARE DINNER FOR ME. WE HAD A FISH SOUP. HE CAUGHT THE FISH IN HIS FIELD THAT AFTERNOON.
They tell me the job will last another two years. The building is going very slow but they don’t care and are not worried about where they will live next.
They cooked me a dinner of fish soup and coffee. They had caught two small fish out in the field behind the site. Yes many of the fields are flooded. I saw many people out fishing in the fields today.
There were two rottweiler dogs which I did not feel particularly comfortable around!
So I asked the lads if they could tie them up. They did so reluctantly, telling me they were harmless dogs. I had other ideas as one of them was trying to chew his way through his chain leash!
There were two rottweiler dogs which I did not feel particularly comfortable around!
So I asked the lads if they could tie them up. They did so reluctantly, telling me they were harmless dogs. I had other ideas as one of them was trying to chew his way through his chain leash!
NO NEED TO WORRY TONY, THEY CAN'T CHEW THROUGH THEIR CHAINS!
After dinner we sat around talking for a while, mostly about my run. The mosquitoes were biting hard, as they always do after heavy rains. I was tormented. I don’t know how Cathy sat there in a mini skirt or how locals seem to get used to these blood suckers.
At eight o’clock when they asked me if I was tired I jumped at the opportunity to dive into the sanctuary of my sleeping bag, up in the loft. Once I got settled down nice and comfortable on the floor I listened to my music for an hour before falling asleep.
At eight o’clock when they asked me if I was tired I jumped at the opportunity to dive into the sanctuary of my sleeping bag, up in the loft. Once I got settled down nice and comfortable on the floor I listened to my music for an hour before falling asleep.
Next morning after breakfast of bread and coffee I am about an hour up the road when a farm tractor with a trailer of roof tiles was driving slowly towards me in my hard shoulder. I move out onto the road to let it pass. Pastor Martin sticks his head out, he stops and pours me a cup of coffee from his thermos. Then he gave me his sun hat when I told him I had left mine behind in the church. What a man!
PASTOR MARTIN GREETS ME WITH COFFEE, HIS ROOF TILES AND GIVES ME HIS SUN HAT!
This last week I was very worried about my feet. They were a bit tender. My right foot even swelled up and then back down in a 24 hour period. That luckily was a rest day in Honduras. I felt it a bit difficult to walk around the puddle filled roads and streets of Choluteca, or chocolate as I kept calling it!
I ran on, stopping in one village for a coffee at a roadside shop/shack. People are strange, as the song goes, the lady here told me she could serve me a coffee there if I go across the road and buy and return with a jar of coffee and water myself!
I ran on, stopping in one village for a coffee at a roadside shop/shack. People are strange, as the song goes, the lady here told me she could serve me a coffee there if I go across the road and buy and return with a jar of coffee and water myself!
I ended up going down a side street and getting a lunch of chicken tacos and the most delicious banana milk shake I have ever tasted. I was tempted to stay there for another but as it hadn’t rained much that overcast day I decided to push on.
I still am plagued by the constant staring, often right up into my face!
Everyone talks about me assuming I can’t understand what they are saying.
It seems nobody can comprehend me running into their town.
Everyone assumes I must have cycled and not ran. I hear them talking about bicycles and wondering if I am a cyclist. It really baffles me why this happens as even when I am spotted and run right up their doorstep and then even after about five minutes talking about the run me telling them where I ran, I wait for it and it always comes back to…
” But where is your bicycle! ” I guess the fact that I wear a modified cycle top and what looks like cycle shorts addds to their confusion.
I am starting to wonder if there is something missing from between my legs that I don’t know about.
Here I was watching one man walk down to the corner of the main street. He walked back and reported to the others that there was no bicycle there. Sometimes it’s fun to pretend you don’t understand!
I have never got this bicycle stuff before, only here in Central America.
Then it started lashing rain again.
Somehow I had mislaid my raincoat a couple of weeks ago. These days I am using a lightweight tarp I bought in Walmarts, McCook, Nebraska for only $10. It is one of the best pieces of equipment I have ever used. Made by Outdoor Products measuring 5 x 7 foot, strong through wafer thin it rolls up and can fit in my pocket. It weighs less than 500 grams. Normally I don’t like to give such publicity to a product that is not a sponsor, but with this I make an exception. I have been using this tarp as a makeshift raincoat of sorts.
So there I am being pissed upon again and as I am running down the highway a girl cycles up behind me. She was friendly and thank God she didn’t ask the ” Why ” question this time, timing is everything. She cycles for about 2km behind me. She tries to make conversation but I am not really in the mood. I am still waiting for the ‘ why are you running in the rain ’ and if she asks, I think I will just blow a fuse!
We get to the junction of Villa Santa Catalina. She lives here, so she waves and says she only wanted to help. I had run 40km, it looks like there is not going to be a let up in the rain.
Then I realise what a plonker I had been so ask her if there was anywhere in the village I could sleep as I just needed a secure place with a roof over my head.
Brenda was her name. She walked me through the village to her house. She told me her family often invite gringos to stay. Her mam and grandmother were inside their small run down house. Brenda rushed inside but stopped me at the door as she said I was ‘ too wet! ‘
So there I am being pissed upon again and as I am running down the highway a girl cycles up behind me. She was friendly and thank God she didn’t ask the ” Why ” question this time, timing is everything. She cycles for about 2km behind me. She tries to make conversation but I am not really in the mood. I am still waiting for the ‘ why are you running in the rain ’ and if she asks, I think I will just blow a fuse!
We get to the junction of Villa Santa Catalina. She lives here, so she waves and says she only wanted to help. I had run 40km, it looks like there is not going to be a let up in the rain.
Then I realise what a plonker I had been so ask her if there was anywhere in the village I could sleep as I just needed a secure place with a roof over my head.
Brenda was her name. She walked me through the village to her house. She told me her family often invite gringos to stay. Her mam and grandmother were inside their small run down house. Brenda rushed inside but stopped me at the door as she said I was ‘ too wet! ‘
Thinking this was strange as I was no wetter than Brenda I sat outside on the porch talking to her brother who had abandoned the Champions League match he had been watching. I bet it wasn’t Barcelona, their football is a religion here. Especially with Barca, they even have their banners and flags on the buses beside the ‘ I love Jesus ‘ and the ‘ God is my guide ‘ signs as many of the last buses of the day drive by stranded would be passengers at the side of the road.
I think it a bit strange when Brenda asks if I would like to get a taxi and stay in Chinadenga 9km away!
I think it a bit strange when Brenda asks if I would like to get a taxi and stay in Chinadenga 9km away!
Not really sure what is happening here. Does mam and gran not approve of this drowned rat she dragged home?
Next thing I know a ten seater minibus full of Americans arrives out of the blue.
Next thing I know a ten seater minibus full of Americans arrives out of the blue.
I wondered if they had been phoned but later Kelly the director of Amigos For Christ tells me it was purely coincidental that they just happened to be making a routine visit to the village. She runs the hospital which is staffed by American volunteer surgeons, doctors and nurses.
She is a young woman, still in her twenties who has been here several years.
She is full of love and tells me of the joy she gets from the job, seeing children born and then watching them grow up.
KELLY AND HER ASSISTANT OUTSIDE THE ' AMIGOS FOR CHRIST ' COMPOUND IN CHINADENGA
They invite me to stay at their hostel. I agree and am told that someone will drop me back to my finishing point in the morning.
Back at the hostel I arrive just in time for dinner. As I tuck into a huge buffet the doctors and nurses tell me about their work here in Nicaragua. Many of the people they operate on have hernia problems due to the physical nature of their manual farm work. Also many lacerations from machetes and foot problems due to not receiving adequate medical attention when the people were young. Many of their once small problems have developed into serious mobility problems due to neglect.
The doctors and surgeons are doing great work often paying for x-rays out of their own pockets. They also tell me about the great clean water supply pipe other volunteer construction workers have built for the area.
Everyone tells me how great my trip is but I can’t agree. I humbled by the incredible work these wonderful people are doing. After all I am only running.
Back at the hostel I arrive just in time for dinner. As I tuck into a huge buffet the doctors and nurses tell me about their work here in Nicaragua. Many of the people they operate on have hernia problems due to the physical nature of their manual farm work. Also many lacerations from machetes and foot problems due to not receiving adequate medical attention when the people were young. Many of their once small problems have developed into serious mobility problems due to neglect.
The doctors and surgeons are doing great work often paying for x-rays out of their own pockets. They also tell me about the great clean water supply pipe other volunteer construction workers have built for the area.
Everyone tells me how great my trip is but I can’t agree. I humbled by the incredible work these wonderful people are doing. After all I am only running.
AN AMERICAN VOLUNTEER
I was told about how many of the villagers never brushed their teeth and then when toothbrushes and toothpaste were donated that often families just shared the same toothbrush. It is an ongoing battle against the odds but it seems the work of Amigos For Christ is making great inroads with some of the health issues of this one community here in Nicaragua, one of the poorest countries in the world. Here is their website
My good luck, as I have often mentioned in this blog just seems to keep on going.
The foot problem I mentioned earlier flared up again over night. In the morning I had difficulty walking comfortably. Both feet were swollen, blistered and covered in red spots (which looked like mosquito bites)
And where was Mangan! In amongst these doctors who quickly diagnosed my problem as athletes foot, in bothfeet. There was no other option for me but to stop here for a few days treatment. Of course my problem is nothing in comparison to the horrendous cases they are dealing with on a daily basis.
The foot problem I mentioned earlier flared up again over night. In the morning I had difficulty walking comfortably. Both feet were swollen, blistered and covered in red spots (which looked like mosquito bites)
And where was Mangan! In amongst these doctors who quickly diagnosed my problem as athletes foot, in bothfeet. There was no other option for me but to stop here for a few days treatment. Of course my problem is nothing in comparison to the horrendous cases they are dealing with on a daily basis.
Many doctors just looked at my feet those first two days and discussed it with me and amongst themselves. They were so busy that I didn’t like to impose as their work in this community is so taxing on them. Eventually Dr. Christian took up my case.
Dr. Christian who is the only Nicaraguan doctor I met here. He hails from the nearby city of Leon. He told me that athletes foot as I have it now is easily treated by creams and pills. Once I start treating it it will start to heal rapidly.
He gave me some pills and creams and warned me that if athletes foot is neglected it can become very serious should the fungus spreads inside the body.
I bought new socks, washed my shoes in bleach in the washing machine. The first one I have seen since San Diego.
I moved into another accommodation, a private hotel of sorts on the hospital grounds. After all with my infected feet it was not fair for me to be sharing the same showers as the others. However in the daytime I came over to compute, meet my many new friends and eat!
So thanks to Dr. Christian’s attention I was back running three days later after five days off.
Well it wasn’t exactly five days as on that fifth day I felt great, the swelling had gone down, the blisters had healed somewhat. I got a lift on the back of truck transporting volunteers and water piping to my finishing point from the last day I ran.
I had left my backpack in the hostel and ran the 9km back to pick up my bag.
I moved into another accommodation, a private hotel of sorts on the hospital grounds. After all with my infected feet it was not fair for me to be sharing the same showers as the others. However in the daytime I came over to compute, meet my many new friends and eat!
So thanks to Dr. Christian’s attention I was back running three days later after five days off.
Well it wasn’t exactly five days as on that fifth day I felt great, the swelling had gone down, the blisters had healed somewhat. I got a lift on the back of truck transporting volunteers and water piping to my finishing point from the last day I ran.
I had left my backpack in the hostel and ran the 9km back to pick up my bag.
It was a beautiful sunny day. Actually there was not much rain during my convalescent period.
By chance Dr. Christian had been there when I returned and advised against running that day telling me I needed 24 more hours. He also told me I need to ventilate my feet by runing in running sandals for a week! But where to get such footwear here? So I just cut the toe area out of my worn out 20th pair of shoes. I had been carrying another new pair that I got from Jorge in Oaxaca, Mexico
By chance Dr. Christian had been there when I returned and advised against running that day telling me I needed 24 more hours. He also told me I need to ventilate my feet by runing in running sandals for a week! But where to get such footwear here? So I just cut the toe area out of my worn out 20th pair of shoes. I had been carrying another new pair that I got from Jorge in Oaxaca, Mexico
MY MODIFIED RUNNING SHOES
I don’t really know for sure how I got the athletes feet but a good bet would be my own stupidly in throwing away my shower flip-flops to save weight. And you know what the showers and even the hotel room floors are like in this part of the world as I have written about it before.
It could also be the ankle deep puddles I have been running through on a regular basis for prolonged periods of time. Perhaps I picked up some kind of a parasite in the puddles. It doesn’t help the fact that my shoes and socks never dry out in this high humidity.
So my proper return to the road was the very next day, October 25th, the first anniversary of the run
And to celebrate my Spot tracking device crashed that day not registering my location to this website.
Just outside of town on the way to Leon I was stopped by a French motorcyclist making his way from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego. It seems many people are making this trip, cyclist, bikers and even a few walkers.
That night in Leon I treated myself to a nice hotel and a nice meal in my room.
Next day I saw a huge dead snake on the road.
Don’t know what species he was as I didn’t hang around to ask. It was about a meter and a half long and the width of a mug.
It was another very hot day and I was having a bit of a problem running with the cut out shoes as small stones kept getting into them. I stopped in a shop/pharmacy for a snack, borrowed a needle and thread, cut off some of my red high viz net vest and sowed this to the missing toe pad area of my shoes, It worked a treat.
TIME TO MOVE OVER TONY!
Further on down the road after draining my two water bottles dry I was a bit concerned where my next fluid intake would come from.
Just then I saw some very young schoolchildren who ran after me and told me the next house, which was abandoned had a water well.
I made my way across the littered strewn lawn I tripped on some barbed wire. The rusted wire watching my cut out toe piece area connecting with the ventilating netting I had stitched on that morning. Another few millimetres and I could have had a nasty jab to my exposed toes!The youngsters, about 10 in all helped me fill my two water bottles. They pumped the pump till the water flowed.
I downed two bottles on the spot and then refilled them. I drink the same water the locals drink and don’t bother to treat it. I would have loved to take their photo but my new camera, my 4th of the expedition is acting up.
The hard shoulders here, if not the roads are the best in all of Central America. Except for the area around the capital Managua I had a two meter shoulder to run on for most of my route through the country. Amazingly every single kilometre had a kilometre marker.
Today I saw 50 of those markers, another great day. I love the challenge of running through Central America, its testing, both mentally and physically, that’s for sure.
Further on the road to Nagarote I got talking to a shopkeeper who told me that Nicaragua has not had a rabies case in 7 years and if there are no more cases in the next 3 years the country will be declared rabies free by the World Health Organisation.
Once in Nagarote I notice very few private cars, mostly trucks, taxis and rickshaws.
It’s heating up more now, but I am comfortable running in it with my backpack which now weighs about 4 kilos.
When my engine overheats I stop for some of my favourite engine coolant. Along these roads many ice cream vendors pedal their ice cream tri-cycles. I can resist everything except temptation!
I CAN RESIST EVERYTHING EXCEPT TEMPTATION AND MY ENGINE COOLANT
Sometimes they amazingly don’t have a spoon for the ice cream tubs telling me to roll up and use the cardboard lid. I don’t go along with this baloney and came up with a novel solution – in such dire situations I am forced to also buy a choc ice using the wooden stick to spoon out the tub!
I ran towards Managua, another sprawling ugly city which I don’t have time for. I climbed for a long time as I approached the city. I managed to route my way around the city via Mt. Tabor and El Cruzero. I based myself in Hospadaje Lulu for a couple of days as a base and commuted from my start finish locations.
NOBODY CAN COMPHREHEND MY RUN! EVERYONE THINKS I HAVE A BICYCLE HIDDEN AWAY SOMEWHERE!
Then the climb out of Managua. I climbed for about two hours.I am now about 105km away from the Costa Rican frontier.
I continue to notice more and more children who should be in school. They are working in some of the roadside eateries I stop in. To be honest I don’ t really see them working, they seem to be just watching cartoons on television, or running around playing.
In one of these places I make the mistake of showing a piece of paper to a lady as I was looking for directions. I then realised she can’t read. I should have guessed. Sorry I didn’t mean to embarrass but can’t help wondering about her daughter.
Is it a transportation issue I wonder, or is they can’t afford the school books.
When such people quizz me about ‘ how can you afford to run around the world? ‘
It’s always hard to answer even if I try saying well I camp when I can, eat sandwiches, try to raise sponsorship. That doesn’t really work as many people just own the clothes on their back and sell bananas for a pittance from 6am to 6pm every day of the year.
When they ask if the Irish government helps me, I sometimes say yes as it’s an easy escape but I am not comfortable by this reply when I see how our compassionateless (is there such a word? ) government treats the old, the sick and the disadvantaged in our country.
Then I stopped at a roadside store, a house really like one of the many places people converted in order to carve out an income. I stopped for a drink and a bag of crisps, just to keep the sodium intake going.
Suddenly and without warning I felt a bout of diarrhea coming on. I asked the lady could I use her toilet, she said no.I know I had no right to expect to use it but in my frustration I asked her after she refused me.
” Are you Catholic? “
She just wished me a good trip..
I really feel there is a lot of hypocrisy here in Central America.
I have observed that religion to many people, just like the God loving bus drivers that fail to stop and their conductors that try to cheat you into paying higher fares is akin to a fashion statement!
Next day I dropped my bag off in Rivas and returned to my previous finish in Jinotepec at kilometer 45 marker. I got off to a late start due to a poor commute. I also miscalculated and didn’t realise it was 66km! I ended up finishing the run late into the evening.
NICARAGUA HAS A GREAT ALTERNATIVE ENERGY PROJECT CLOSE TO THE COSTA RICAN BORDER
On the way, after about 45km I had a bit of a scare as I had to run by some youths sitting on a wall at a bridge in the dark. As I ran by they shouted out ” Hey gringo! “I ran like a bat out of Hell and am not sure if they were just having a laugh as one of them ran a little down the road. I will never know.
Torrential rain for the last 5km but I cheered up as that was the 13,000th km run!
I walked around Rivas for ages in the rain looking for something to eat. I eventually found a restaurant and ordered a steak which was served with one of the smallest portions of food I have ever eaten!
About 7 French fries, 2 inches of salad and a slice of tomato.
The young lad in the hospadaje (very basic hotel) I stayed in thought I was bonkers when I asked for newspaper to put into my shoes to dry out. I decided to stay there another night so as I could run the 34.8km to the Costa Rican border without my pack as the bus service to the border is good.
