THE FOUR CORNERS
From Colorado I am going to run into Arizona. This state line is different to all others because four states Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona all converge together. It’s the only spot where 4 US states come together. You can actually put your foot on this spot and be in all four states at the same time. Americans have a strange fascination by this, they even have a national monument. I am wondering how Irish people would react if we had a four corners for the four counties of Dublin,Meath,Kildare and Wicklow!
I wondered how many couples sneaked out here in the middle of the night to make it out in four states at the same time!
Across the state line I am running past the Ute mountains. The scenery is breathtaking. It is reminiscent of a spaghetti western movie set with red mountain cliffs that reach high into the sky. Its about 70 miles to the next big town. There was a small village after about 25 miles. I arrived at a restaurant at a trading post there but it was closed because today is Easter Sunday.
A little later a woman stopped to give me a huge bag of candy and soda.
The next day a Navajo family stopped and gave me 4bottles of water. I had a good day that day. I made many stops but still managed to clock up over 61km / 38.5 miles
Despite all my water I am not drinking enough. The air is very dry. My lips have developed a cold sore. It’s a bad one as its even hard to eat and brush my teeth.
I could not find anywhere to camp and ended up running after dark. Eventually I found a large hedge well off the road and dragged Nirvana across the field. It was a nice evening so I just pulled out my light-weight tarp,sleeping bag and bivy bag. I didn’t sleep well due to the wind. The traffic doesn’t seem to bother me. I guess I become immune to traffic noise at night as I hear it so much in the daytime.
I stuck my head out of the bivy around 7am and the sky was nice and clear. While in the middle of my packup the sky suddenly and without warning darkened. There was a crackle of thunder and a bolt of lightening. Hail the size of marbles pelted me for a few minutes. Luckily it lasted only a few minutes but I was soaked. I was frozen. Had I stayed in my bivy for a few more minutes I would have escaped this.
I was soaked by the time I pulled Nirvana back to the road. A Navajo family were shocked when Irefused a ride to Kayente, a 2 hour freezing run away. I stopped for 3 hours there at a restaurant to dry off and log onto their wifi.
I am running deeper and deeper onto the Navajo, native American reservation. I notice there are no longer any cows, horses or even bird life as water is so scarce.
That night I sleep in a culvert under the road. The culverts here are no ordinary culverts. They are usually located at every mile marker. This one was huge. You could drive a truck through it. Later I was told this is because of the flash floods. All the water for the year comes in about 3 flashes a year. I don’t think I will sleep in one again, despite their convenience.
After a good nights sleep I ran another 60 plus km day. I felt so strong today. I ran all the way to a village called Red Lake. Just at the end of the day there was a massive climb. I was open-mouted as I approached it. It looked like a 3 or 4% I wondered how the cars didn’t fall off the hill!
At the top of the hill there was a Trading Post, which is what they call convenience stores on the reservation. I would love to get into a Navajo home but don’t have the nerve to hustle. I am finding them to be friendly but also have a strange reservedness, just like Nebraskans.
I pitch my tent beside an old shed behind the Trading post. I get the fright of my life when walking back across the gravel road I see what I think is a black snake. It is about a meter long. Then I realize it’s just an old black cable, probably from the electrics of an old truck.
I went inside the trading post for some coffee and cookies and asked the lady there. I am told there are no snakes or bears out yet as it is still a bit cold for them. Another lady told me that only an hour ago she saw about 5 mountain lions on the way over Black Mesa. I am told not to worry. They don’t come down here.
May 4th, 2011 at 9:20 pm
Hi Tony,
glad you are discovering one of my favorite places on earth. Take in the scenery because it is truly breathtaking and, please, by all means stay out of the culverts!!
You’re getting close to Jerome, a place where Oscar Wilde, following one of his readings, was invited for dinner by the miners, but down in the mine. As it turns out the Irish fella was the last man standing, sorely disappointed that none of these tough lads made it through the ‘main course’ and the origin of one of his memorable quotes. A story worth checking…
Running near Flagstaff, you may find some Irish marathon runners training with Greg mcMillan.
And, if need be, let me know how the shoes are!
Cool runnings my friend!
May 7th, 2011 at 3:13 am
Tony,
Are you going near or through Joshua Tree? I have climbing friends who live there – though this time of year they also live outside Yosemite. Let me know if and when you’ll be near there & I can try to hook you up.
Sandie (in Maine)
May 8th, 2011 at 1:54 am
Hi Sandy Lovely to hear from you
Sorry I changed my route. I am now in Congress,Az.Very, very hot!! I am heading for San Diego. 383 miles away! To check on my exact route click those 2 locations on a google map and tick ‘ avoid highways ‘
May 10th, 2011 at 12:52 am
Checked it out Tony. I’m sure the blizzard of Maine seems far away now! Have a great time back in Eire.