RANT IN THE TRADING POST.
I ran out of Red Lake headed for Tuba City. I hadn’t slept much the night before. The owner of the trading post had a NavajoDETAILS  music session in his back garden. It sounded like a long war dance to me. Perhaps I have watched too many westerns in the past. Still it was enjoyable.
The pleasant lady in the trading post told me her boss was in his hot tub, so not sure what way the war dance was performed.
Everywhere one looks on the side of the road on the reservation one sees thrash, empty beer bottles, and cans. The litter problem is truly disgusting. There does not even seem to be an effort to clean it up. Many states have a deposit system on cans and bottles. Surely it would be a good idea to introduce it here?
I stopped in McDonalds for wifi in Tuba City. It was a mile off my route but wifi on the road is valuable and I need to avail whenever I have an opportunity.
Just before I went in I stopped at a wasteland where Navajo’s had set up food stalls. The food smelt delicious. Upon inquiring I was told a bowl of lamb stew was $7, so I turned to go. One of the ladies called me back and said. ” Please sir it is on us! “
So I ate a plate of delicious Navajo fry bread, the lamb stew, a cup of squash and vegetable desert drink. The three women were lovely people, even if a bit camera shy.
I had so many emails and so much work to do I was in McDonalds for five hours. Also booked my flights for my time out when I get to San Diego. I will be flying back to Dublin on the 26th May when I complete the North American leg on the west coast near San Diego.
I will spend three weeks in Dublin before returning to LA on the 16th June. I will attend the two U2 concert in Anaheim on the 17th and 18th June. I will then travel back to my finishing up location and continue running towards Mexico in the third week of June.
I got talking to a very nice English couple from Blackpool called Carl and Kelly. They hired a convertible and are travelling around for three weeks.
Just before going I met an Irish nurse called Trudy. Trudy originally hails from Mayo but has lived over here for over 20 years. It was now dark as I was heading out onto the road. I was a bit surprised and disappointed Trudy didn’t offer me a place for the night.

In fact I actually had a promise of a place to stay here. One of the followers of this blog a  very thoughtful man named Ed emailed  the health department here. The persons name I was put in touch wit was called C Slim. After getting an initial reply, my follow up voicemail and emails were ignored and I never heard anymore. So I couldn’t help wondering if C Slim worked for an optician or if the first name had one letter less  I probably would have believed it was a joker within the department of health!

No worries. I had a good laugh and Ed did set me up with some wonderful people from a running club called the Mountain Milers a few days later in Prescott.
I ended up running for almost an hour before pulling off the road behind a big hedge I hid Nirvana, pulled out my tarp, bivy and sleeping bag. It can be sometimes difficult to find a place to camp in thiis area as the fields are all barbed-wired off. So there is often only about 20 meters of ground beyond the hard shoulder, so for security reasons pitching a tent is out of the question.
Next day I continued running along route 89 south along the reservation. I am now heading for Flagstaff. The days are warming up rapidly now. It’s a dry arid heat. The wind when it blows in my face is now a godsend. Before I hated a headwind. Now it’s my cooling friend.
I met Carl and Kelly on the road this morning. They stopped me for a chat and some photos. They also gave me some drinks, crisps, bananas and a veggie salad with a sour cream dip..Nice one!
Just as I was going an American family pulled up and donated $25 to my AWARE charity. Thanks also.
I ran on and at the top of a hill in the town of Cameron I stopped at Cameron Trading Post Lodge. Inside the restaurant while enjoying one of my favourite dinners, liver,onions and mushrooms I was talking to the manager, a very efficient pleasant man called Josh.
I didn’t even have to show Josh the Magic Letter he just gave me a luxury suite in return for a mention on the website. The suite was valued at $140 a night and in a couple of days time it will probably be twice that in the high season.
So on and on I ran through the reservation. I didn’t like this stretch too much. All the thrash on the side of the road is sickening. I know most of the country has thrash on the side but here its especially bad with lots of domestic rubbish, old sinks and scrap car part along with thousands of  beer bottles and beer cans. Every time I cast my eyes out, no matter which direction all I can see is thrash.
They say prohibition doesn’t work well they got it here on the reservation and the Navaho’s just drive to a place where they can buy it flinging their beer containers out their windows. Many stopped to offer me water and whereas that is nice, it’s not nice that almost always they had an open alcohol container in their vehicle. They didn’t even seem to be bothered that a cop might stop them as they were pulled over for me. It’s like a different law out here.
I met an Aussie cyclist called Rob who was travelling around the States with an American girl called Britney. The were really loaded down. Rob even had a guitar!
I had a good chat with him about my Aussie route and my plan for there. I now intend to go up along the east coast there instead of the center, will have to update my route map when I get a chance.

So I am off the reservation now. I never got to act my sketch out with a Navajo so as I push Nirvana on I day dream it instead.

Navajo Man. ” How!  “

Me. ” How Ya doin’ yourself chief? “

Navajo Man. ” I am not a chief. I am an ordinary Navajo man. “

Me. ” No worries, that just an expression we use in Ireland for someone in authority. “

Navajo Man. ” I’ m a Navajo. “

Me. ” And I’m a Dub! “

Navajo Man. ” A Dub? “

” Yes I am from Dublin. “

Then I woke up to the sound of more and more RV’s and gangs of motorbikers  no doubt on their way to the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give the canyon a miss. I have been there before. It would have been nice to run from east to west and across it but there is no trail in that direction nor a direct road to or from the canyon.

 
About 4 miles further on I came to another trading post. I nearly didn’t stop as it was so soon after my last stop but I thought a 2 minute stop and an ice cream on the run was a fantastic idea!
” What do you want! ” Says the owner in an unfriendly manner as he greeted me at the door.
” Just an ice cream. “
So I look around the store and start browsing at the camping gear.
” I thought you wanted an ice cream? What you doing over there, the ice creams are over here! “
So I selected one and moved a box off a chair and sat down forgetting its an ice cream on the run. I looked around, it was a pokey grubby joint. A sign on the wall had a picture of Geronimo the famous indian chief with 4 braves. The caption was.
Homeland Security… Fighting Terrorism Since 1492.
Just then a young Navajo man in his twenties came in for some beer as this was the end of the reservation many travelled over here.
” Hey Mickey how is your day going? ” Said the Navajo.
” I just had an Aussie cyclist stop here. A right nutter. Imagine cycling on these roads! “
This road is very busy. Perhaps the busiest of my run so far.
” So what you up to? That’s a nice and fancy gps you got around your neck and is that a compass too? ” Mickey asked the Navajo man.
” Yes I got to stake my plot up around the back! “
” But you cant do that that is private property! ” Says Mickey.
” Listen I am Navajo and its all mine I can take which plot I like. “
The government gives each native American person a plot of land for free.
Then they start arguing if it’s for a 66 year or a 99 year lease.
The man buys a bag of freshly made popcorn and leaves. Everyone around here seems to eat popcorn. Mickey turns his attention to me. I am starting to wonder if he will be the first rude person I have met on the run!
I’m still eating my ice cream but the wrapper is on my lap.
Then like I was a little boy he says.
” When you finish with that wrapper throw it in the thrash can! “
So I said to Mickey. ” You know I nearly didn’t stop here I almost kept going. “
” I know, I saw you and I pitied you that’s why I let you sit down, not like that Aussie nutter with his guitar. “
” I hate tourists all they do is come in and gawk! And never buy anything, they ask the price of twenty things and then ask if they can use the rest room even though I got a No Rest Room sign up. “
Then the rant went on…
” That’s why I put those railroad ties in the parking lot to keep them out!
” All they ever do is pull up here and throw their thrash in the can, shit around the side and suck cock! “
Just then a couple drove up and took a photo of the trading post building.
” look some more cock suckers!
” I am going to tell them I am closed. “
He shook his fist at the window.
” Go away we are closed! “
” But you must loose a lot of business acting like that Mickey? “
” The amount of times I depend on a sale from one of them is about once a year.
” My real business is with the Navajo even with all their problems they are good for me.
” You know Tony they got 60% unemployment on the reservation and you know as well as I do if you want to get a job you will always get one. I have been working since I was eight years old and I will be working till the day I die.
” Then they come in here and ask me to slide them a six pack and all the money they get from the government and casinos. “
” Government and casinos? ” I asked.
” Yes they get an allowance from the government and free medical and everything they need and if a casino is built on the reservation each family gets five grand a month. “
” That sounds a lot Mickey can I quote you on my blog? “
” You can say whatever you want and you can go in there and do it now on my computer. I only use it for paying bills. “
” I thought you might say that Mickey! “
” I am from Brooklyn. You ever heard of Brooklyn? “
” Of course. “
” Well in Brooklyn you gotta be tough. Out here is still the wild west. If I call the cops they won’t be here for an hour so I got to take care of things myself. “
He shows me a Browning handgun slung on a holster under his jacket.
” I also got a shotgun under the counter. “

And he goes on!

” A while back a Californian tourist comes in and asks me where is this place called Reservation!

” So I say, Lady you are (almost) on it..

” Then she asks me does she need a reservation, so I tell her to just get out!

” She tells me I am the rudest shopkeeper she has met in Arizona and I tell her she has forgotten all those ass lickin’ shopkeepers but will never forget me! “
I am standing up to go. Mickey has a 40 foot trailer which he has given me an opportunity to spend the night there. I decline as I want to run a bit more. He tells me of a religious man called Cecil who lives 13 miles down the road.
” Don’t say I said but he will put you up. “
I am leaving to go and he says.
” Nuts! “
” Pardon me? “
” You want a bag of peanuts just take them off the shelf They are great for protein. “
I go outside and he follows me outside warning me about the motorists and the people in Flagstaff, how I need to be careful.
I crank up my ipod with external speakers attached to Nirvana’s handlebars.
” What you listening to… Pink Floyd? “
” Yes.. Wish You Were Here… “  PRESS TO PLAY
” No been trying to sell the damn place for three years now! “
Then he calls me back inside.
” I forgot to turn off the popcorn machine, don’t want to burn out the motor. “
” Here is $10 for you I don’t wanting you going down the road calling me a rude bastard! “

Remember in Flagstaff… Run Like Hell > PRESS TO PLAY

” You really do like Floyd, Don’t you? ” I asked.
I ran down the road about 12 miles. I saw a house which was probably Cecil’s but took Mickey at his word he said 13. Another mile and I was in a National Forest so I just ended up rolling my bag out behind a hedge.

THIS IS MY ROUTE FOR TE REST OF THE USA AS FAR AS THE PACIFIC.

PLEASE CLICK ON THE GOOGLE MAP LINK BELOW AND ZOOM IN ON BLUE LINES FOR TOWNS I WILL BE PASSING THRU.

ROUTE MAP PLEASE CLICK>> HERE

From Colorado I am going to run into Arizona. This state line is different to all others because four states Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona all converge together. It’s the only spot where 4 US  states come together. You can actually put your foot on this spot and be in all four states at the same time. Americans have a strange fascination by this, they even have a national monument. I am wondering how Irish people would react if we had a four corners for the four counties of Dublin,Meath,Kildare and Wicklow!

I wondered how many couples sneaked out here in the middle of the night to make it out in four states at the same time!

Across the state line I am running past the Ute mountains. The scenery is breathtaking. It is reminiscent of a spaghetti western movie set with red mountain cliffs that reach high into the sky. Its about 70 miles to the next big town. There was a small village after  about 25 miles. I arrived at a restaurant at a trading post there but it was closed because today is Easter Sunday.

A little later a woman stopped to give me a huge bag of candy and soda.

The next day a Navajo family stopped and gave me 4bottles of water. I had a good day that day. I made many stops but still managed to clock up over 61km / 38.5 miles

Despite all my water I am  not drinking enough. The air is very dry. My lips have developed a cold sore. It’s a bad one as its even hard to eat and brush my teeth.

I could not find anywhere to camp and ended up running after dark. Eventually I found a large hedge well off the road and dragged Nirvana across the field. It was a nice evening so I just pulled out my light-weight tarp,sleeping bag and bivy bag. I didn’t sleep well due to the wind. The traffic doesn’t seem to bother me. I guess I become immune to traffic noise at night as I hear it so much in the daytime.

I stuck my head out of the bivy around 7am and the sky was nice and clear. While in the middle of my packup the sky suddenly and without warning darkened. There was a crackle of thunder and a bolt of lightening. Hail the size of marbles pelted me for a few minutes. Luckily it lasted only a few minutes but I was soaked. I was frozen. Had I stayed in my bivy for a few more minutes I would have escaped this. 

I was soaked by the time I pulled Nirvana back to the road. A Navajo family were shocked when Irefused a ride to Kayente, a 2 hour freezing run away.  I stopped for 3 hours there at a restaurant to dry off and log onto their wifi.

I am running deeper and deeper onto the Navajo, native American reservation. I notice there are  no longer any cows, horses or even bird life as water is so scarce.

That night I sleep in a culvert under the road. The culverts here are no ordinary culverts. They are usually located at every mile marker. This one was huge. You could drive a truck through it. Later I was told this is because of the flash floods. All the water for the year comes in about 3 flashes a year. I don’t think I will sleep in one again, despite their convenience.

After a good nights sleep I ran another 60 plus km day. I felt so strong today. I ran all the way to a village called Red Lake. Just at the end of the day there was a massive climb. I was open-mouted as I approached it. It looked like a 3 or 4% I wondered how the cars didn’t fall off the hill!

At the top of the hill there was a Trading Post, which is what they call convenience stores on the reservation. I would love to get into a Navajo home but don’t have the nerve to hustle. I am finding them to be friendly but also have a strange reservedness, just like Nebraskans.

I pitch my tent beside an old shed behind the Trading post. I get the fright of my life when walking back across the gravel road I see what I  think is a black snake. It is about a meter long. Then I realize it’s just an old black cable, probably from the electrics of  an old truck.

I went inside the trading post for some coffee and cookies and asked the lady there. I am told there are no snakes or bears out yet as it is still a bit cold for them.  Another lady told me that only an hour ago she saw about 5 mountain lions on the way over Black Mesa. I am told not to worry. They don’t come down here.