So people warned me about Flagstaff and I guess I took it lightly.

I arrived in the city and went to McDonalds to log onto their wifi. I also needed to charge my ipod so plugged it into a wall socket in the childrens playroom. I watching it carefully from a distance of about 20 meters.

I should have been suspicious when an adult couple started playing the childrens video machines. They were obviously waiting their chance, and they found it when the unpluged the ipod along with my wall charger.

I know it was my fault and in my annoyance I couldn’t help wishing them to go deaf on AC/DC!

Forever more when I hear the name Flagstaff I will be reminded of other unsavoury places such as the blackhole of Calcutta and even Tangiers.

 But I guess if this is the worst thing that happens to me on the trip I will be lucky!

I never felt safe in the city especially when I had to run under a road underpass tunnel. I had a screwdriver to the ready. Not wanting camp near the dump I got a discounted room in Super 8 motel which is the only good thing I can say about the city.

As I mentioned before we are all ambassadors for our countries and cities. Perhaps we don’t realise the small thing we do and say to strangers may be quoted for years to come.

These people have let Flagstaff down and I will always remember it for the wrong reasons.

TOTAL FOR 171  ROAD DAYS  =  7,606.8 KM  =  4,726.4  MILES.

MAY 11TH 2011 FROM MILE 31.8  TO MILE 0.5 ON INTERSTATE 10WEST

EHRENHERST. 50.4KM  =  31. 3 MILES.

MAY 10TH 2011. FROM SALOME, MILE 56 TO MILE 31.8 ON US60WEST/INTERSTATE 10 WEST JUNCTION.  38.9 KM  =  24.2 MILES.

MAY 9TH 2011 FROM AQUILA MILE 85 TO SALOME MILE MARKER 56 ON US 60 WEST.

46.8KM  =  29 MILES.

MAY 8TH 2011 CONGRESS MILE MARKER  268 ON US 89 SOUTH TO AQUILA, MILE 85 ON US60 WEST.  39. 4 KM  =  24.5 MILES

MAY 7TH 2011. FROM MILE 289.9 ON ROUTE 89 TO CONGRESS,AZ. ON MILE MARKER 268 ON ROUTE 89.

35.3KM  =  21.9 MILES.

MAY 6TH 2011  FROM MILE MARKER 321 ON ROUTE 89A TO MILE MARKER 289.9 ON ROUTE 89.

50KM  =  31.1 MILES.

TONIGHT I AM THE GUEST OF KEN AND DEBRA AND MOUNTAIN MILERS RUNNING CLUB. THANKS FOR A LOVELY DAY AND EVENING

MAY 5TH 2011 FROM CLARKDALE BAPTIST CHURCH MILE 349.5  TO MILE 321 ON US89A

45.8KM  = 28.5 MILES

TONIGHT I AM THE GUEST OF KEN AND DEBRA OF THE MOUNTAIN MILERS RUNNING CLUB IN PRESCOT,AZ. THANKS FOR YOUR INCREDIBLE HELP AND I LOOK FORWARD TO THE PARTY TOMORROW AS I AM COMMUTTING BACK TO PRESCOT

MAY 4TH 2011 FROM MILE 376 ON US89A TO CLARKDALE BAPTIST CHURCH MILE 349.5 

42.7KM  =  26.5 MILES.

MAY 3RD REST DAY IN SEDONA. MY GREAT FRIEND GREG HAVELY FLEW IN FROM OREGON YESTERDAY TO SPECIALLY MEET UP WITH ME. TODAY I TOOK A REST DAY.

I HAVE KNOWN GREG SINCE WE MET IN 1976 WHEN I WAS TRAVELLING ON A TRAIN TO EL ALAMEIN IN EGYPT!  THANKS GREG. YOU MADE A PROMISE AND FAIR PLAY TO YOU FOR KEEPING IT!

MAY 2ND 2011 START SUPER 8 IN FLAGSTAFF.. FINISH MILE MARKER 376 ON US 89A (1.7 MILES NORTH OF SEDONA)  47.3KM   =   29.4  MILES.

THANKS TO MY FRIEND GREG HAVELY FOR TREATING ME TO TO A MOTEL AND MEALS DURING MY 2 NIGHT STAY HERE IN THIS BEAUTIFUL TOWN OF SEDONA.

MAY 1ST 2011 START MILE 441 ON US89 FINISH FLAGSTAFF (SUPER 8 MOTEL)

42KM  =  26 MILES.  THANKS TO SUPER 8 FOR A SUPER DISCOUNT

APRIL 30TH 2011.  START MILE 465 . FINISH MILE 441 ON US89 SOUTH.

38.6KM  =  24 MILES.

APRIL 29TH MILE  318/US160WEST  TO MILE 465 ON US89 SOUTH ( CAMERON TRADING POST LODGE)  37.3KM   =  22.5  MILES.

TONIGHT I AM THE GUEST OF THE CAMERON TRADING POST LODGE. THANKS FOR A WONDERFUL TIME

APRIL 28TH FROM RED LAKE TO (4MLS WEST TUBA CITY) MILE MARKER 318 ON US160WEST.  42KM  =  26 MILES.

APRIL 27TH. FROM MILE MARKER 382.5 TO RED LAKE, MILE 344.

61.4KM   =   38.5 MILES.

APRIL 26TH 2011. FROM MILE 405.5 ON US 160 TO MILE 372.5

37 KM = 23 MILES. TONIGHT I AM STAYING IN THE ANASAZI INN. I GOT A BIG DISCOUNT FROM THE OWNER PATRICIA MANYGOATS. THANK YOU VERY MUCH

APRIL 25TH FROM MILE 444 ON US160WEST TO MILE 405.5 US 160WEST

61.4KM  =  38.5 MILES

APRIL 24TH 2011. FROM FOUR CORNERS TO MILE 444 ON US 160WEST

54.7KM  =  34  MILES.

.

>>> TIMEOUT DETAILS   <<<

 I WILL FLY FROM THERE TO DUBLIN ON MAY 26TH RETURNING TO LA ON JUNE 16. I WILL THEN ATTEND TWO U2 CONCERTS IN ANAHEIM ON 17&18TH. I WILL THEN CONTINUE RUNNING (TOWARDS CENTRAL AMERICA)FROM THE EXACT SPOT I LEFT OFF FROM A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER.

DISTANCE RUN FOR MONTH 6 = 1190.6 KM =  739.7 MILES… 31 DAYS =  27 ROAD AND 4 REST DAYS.

AS MENTIONED BEFORE IT IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR ME TRYING TO KEEP MY BLOG UP TO DATE. I APPOLOGISE FOR THIS DELAY.

PLEASE REFER BACK TO THIS POSTING DAILY WHERE I WILL LOG MY DAILY DISTANCES AND ROUTE WHEN POSSIBLE.

RANT IN THE TRADING POST.
I ran out of Red Lake headed for Tuba City. I hadn’t slept much the night before. The owner of the trading post had a NavajoDETAILS  music session in his back garden. It sounded like a long war dance to me. Perhaps I have watched too many westerns in the past. Still it was enjoyable.
The pleasant lady in the trading post told me her boss was in his hot tub, so not sure what way the war dance was performed.
Everywhere one looks on the side of the road on the reservation one sees thrash, empty beer bottles, and cans. The litter problem is truly disgusting. There does not even seem to be an effort to clean it up. Many states have a deposit system on cans and bottles. Surely it would be a good idea to introduce it here?
I stopped in McDonalds for wifi in Tuba City. It was a mile off my route but wifi on the road is valuable and I need to avail whenever I have an opportunity.
Just before I went in I stopped at a wasteland where Navajo’s had set up food stalls. The food smelt delicious. Upon inquiring I was told a bowl of lamb stew was $7, so I turned to go. One of the ladies called me back and said. ” Please sir it is on us! “
So I ate a plate of delicious Navajo fry bread, the lamb stew, a cup of squash and vegetable desert drink. The three women were lovely people, even if a bit camera shy.
I had so many emails and so much work to do I was in McDonalds for five hours. Also booked my flights for my time out when I get to San Diego. I will be flying back to Dublin on the 26th May when I complete the North American leg on the west coast near San Diego.
I will spend three weeks in Dublin before returning to LA on the 16th June. I will attend the two U2 concert in Anaheim on the 17th and 18th June. I will then travel back to my finishing up location and continue running towards Mexico in the third week of June.
I got talking to a very nice English couple from Blackpool called Carl and Kelly. They hired a convertible and are travelling around for three weeks.
Just before going I met an Irish nurse called Trudy. Trudy originally hails from Mayo but has lived over here for over 20 years. It was now dark as I was heading out onto the road. I was a bit surprised and disappointed Trudy didn’t offer me a place for the night.

In fact I actually had a promise of a place to stay here. One of the followers of this blog a  very thoughtful man named Ed emailed  the health department here. The persons name I was put in touch wit was called C Slim. After getting an initial reply, my follow up voicemail and emails were ignored and I never heard anymore. So I couldn’t help wondering if C Slim worked for an optician or if the first name had one letter less  I probably would have believed it was a joker within the department of health!

No worries. I had a good laugh and Ed did set me up with some wonderful people from a running club called the Mountain Milers a few days later in Prescott.
I ended up running for almost an hour before pulling off the road behind a big hedge I hid Nirvana, pulled out my tarp, bivy and sleeping bag. It can be sometimes difficult to find a place to camp in thiis area as the fields are all barbed-wired off. So there is often only about 20 meters of ground beyond the hard shoulder, so for security reasons pitching a tent is out of the question.
Next day I continued running along route 89 south along the reservation. I am now heading for Flagstaff. The days are warming up rapidly now. It’s a dry arid heat. The wind when it blows in my face is now a godsend. Before I hated a headwind. Now it’s my cooling friend.
I met Carl and Kelly on the road this morning. They stopped me for a chat and some photos. They also gave me some drinks, crisps, bananas and a veggie salad with a sour cream dip..Nice one!
Just as I was going an American family pulled up and donated $25 to my AWARE charity. Thanks also.
I ran on and at the top of a hill in the town of Cameron I stopped at Cameron Trading Post Lodge. Inside the restaurant while enjoying one of my favourite dinners, liver,onions and mushrooms I was talking to the manager, a very efficient pleasant man called Josh.
I didn’t even have to show Josh the Magic Letter he just gave me a luxury suite in return for a mention on the website. The suite was valued at $140 a night and in a couple of days time it will probably be twice that in the high season.
So on and on I ran through the reservation. I didn’t like this stretch too much. All the thrash on the side of the road is sickening. I know most of the country has thrash on the side but here its especially bad with lots of domestic rubbish, old sinks and scrap car part along with thousands of  beer bottles and beer cans. Every time I cast my eyes out, no matter which direction all I can see is thrash.
They say prohibition doesn’t work well they got it here on the reservation and the Navaho’s just drive to a place where they can buy it flinging their beer containers out their windows. Many stopped to offer me water and whereas that is nice, it’s not nice that almost always they had an open alcohol container in their vehicle. They didn’t even seem to be bothered that a cop might stop them as they were pulled over for me. It’s like a different law out here.
I met an Aussie cyclist called Rob who was travelling around the States with an American girl called Britney. The were really loaded down. Rob even had a guitar!
I had a good chat with him about my Aussie route and my plan for there. I now intend to go up along the east coast there instead of the center, will have to update my route map when I get a chance.

So I am off the reservation now. I never got to act my sketch out with a Navajo so as I push Nirvana on I day dream it instead.

Navajo Man. ” How!  “

Me. ” How Ya doin’ yourself chief? “

Navajo Man. ” I am not a chief. I am an ordinary Navajo man. “

Me. ” No worries, that just an expression we use in Ireland for someone in authority. “

Navajo Man. ” I’ m a Navajo. “

Me. ” And I’m a Dub! “

Navajo Man. ” A Dub? “

” Yes I am from Dublin. “

Then I woke up to the sound of more and more RV’s and gangs of motorbikers  no doubt on their way to the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give the canyon a miss. I have been there before. It would have been nice to run from east to west and across it but there is no trail in that direction nor a direct road to or from the canyon.

 
About 4 miles further on I came to another trading post. I nearly didn’t stop as it was so soon after my last stop but I thought a 2 minute stop and an ice cream on the run was a fantastic idea!
” What do you want! ” Says the owner in an unfriendly manner as he greeted me at the door.
” Just an ice cream. “
So I look around the store and start browsing at the camping gear.
” I thought you wanted an ice cream? What you doing over there, the ice creams are over here! “
So I selected one and moved a box off a chair and sat down forgetting its an ice cream on the run. I looked around, it was a pokey grubby joint. A sign on the wall had a picture of Geronimo the famous indian chief with 4 braves. The caption was.
Homeland Security… Fighting Terrorism Since 1492.
Just then a young Navajo man in his twenties came in for some beer as this was the end of the reservation many travelled over here.
” Hey Mickey how is your day going? ” Said the Navajo.
” I just had an Aussie cyclist stop here. A right nutter. Imagine cycling on these roads! “
This road is very busy. Perhaps the busiest of my run so far.
” So what you up to? That’s a nice and fancy gps you got around your neck and is that a compass too? ” Mickey asked the Navajo man.
” Yes I got to stake my plot up around the back! “
” But you cant do that that is private property! ” Says Mickey.
” Listen I am Navajo and its all mine I can take which plot I like. “
The government gives each native American person a plot of land for free.
Then they start arguing if it’s for a 66 year or a 99 year lease.
The man buys a bag of freshly made popcorn and leaves. Everyone around here seems to eat popcorn. Mickey turns his attention to me. I am starting to wonder if he will be the first rude person I have met on the run!
I’m still eating my ice cream but the wrapper is on my lap.
Then like I was a little boy he says.
” When you finish with that wrapper throw it in the thrash can! “
So I said to Mickey. ” You know I nearly didn’t stop here I almost kept going. “
” I know, I saw you and I pitied you that’s why I let you sit down, not like that Aussie nutter with his guitar. “
” I hate tourists all they do is come in and gawk! And never buy anything, they ask the price of twenty things and then ask if they can use the rest room even though I got a No Rest Room sign up. “
Then the rant went on…
” That’s why I put those railroad ties in the parking lot to keep them out!
” All they ever do is pull up here and throw their thrash in the can, shit around the side and suck cock! “
Just then a couple drove up and took a photo of the trading post building.
” look some more cock suckers!
” I am going to tell them I am closed. “
He shook his fist at the window.
” Go away we are closed! “
” But you must loose a lot of business acting like that Mickey? “
” The amount of times I depend on a sale from one of them is about once a year.
” My real business is with the Navajo even with all their problems they are good for me.
” You know Tony they got 60% unemployment on the reservation and you know as well as I do if you want to get a job you will always get one. I have been working since I was eight years old and I will be working till the day I die.
” Then they come in here and ask me to slide them a six pack and all the money they get from the government and casinos. “
” Government and casinos? ” I asked.
” Yes they get an allowance from the government and free medical and everything they need and if a casino is built on the reservation each family gets five grand a month. “
” That sounds a lot Mickey can I quote you on my blog? “
” You can say whatever you want and you can go in there and do it now on my computer. I only use it for paying bills. “
” I thought you might say that Mickey! “
” I am from Brooklyn. You ever heard of Brooklyn? “
” Of course. “
” Well in Brooklyn you gotta be tough. Out here is still the wild west. If I call the cops they won’t be here for an hour so I got to take care of things myself. “
He shows me a Browning handgun slung on a holster under his jacket.
” I also got a shotgun under the counter. “

And he goes on!

” A while back a Californian tourist comes in and asks me where is this place called Reservation!

” So I say, Lady you are (almost) on it..

” Then she asks me does she need a reservation, so I tell her to just get out!

” She tells me I am the rudest shopkeeper she has met in Arizona and I tell her she has forgotten all those ass lickin’ shopkeepers but will never forget me! “
I am standing up to go. Mickey has a 40 foot trailer which he has given me an opportunity to spend the night there. I decline as I want to run a bit more. He tells me of a religious man called Cecil who lives 13 miles down the road.
” Don’t say I said but he will put you up. “
I am leaving to go and he says.
” Nuts! “
” Pardon me? “
” You want a bag of peanuts just take them off the shelf They are great for protein. “
I go outside and he follows me outside warning me about the motorists and the people in Flagstaff, how I need to be careful.
I crank up my ipod with external speakers attached to Nirvana’s handlebars.
” What you listening to… Pink Floyd? “
” Yes.. Wish You Were Here… “  PRESS TO PLAY
” No been trying to sell the damn place for three years now! “
Then he calls me back inside.
” I forgot to turn off the popcorn machine, don’t want to burn out the motor. “
” Here is $10 for you I don’t wanting you going down the road calling me a rude bastard! “

Remember in Flagstaff… Run Like Hell > PRESS TO PLAY

” You really do like Floyd, Don’t you? ” I asked.
I ran down the road about 12 miles. I saw a house which was probably Cecil’s but took Mickey at his word he said 13. Another mile and I was in a National Forest so I just ended up rolling my bag out behind a hedge.

THIS IS MY ROUTE FOR TE REST OF THE USA AS FAR AS THE PACIFIC.

PLEASE CLICK ON THE GOOGLE MAP LINK BELOW AND ZOOM IN ON BLUE LINES FOR TOWNS I WILL BE PASSING THRU.

ROUTE MAP PLEASE CLICK>> HERE

From Colorado I am going to run into Arizona. This state line is different to all others because four states Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona all converge together. It’s the only spot where 4 US  states come together. You can actually put your foot on this spot and be in all four states at the same time. Americans have a strange fascination by this, they even have a national monument. I am wondering how Irish people would react if we had a four corners for the four counties of Dublin,Meath,Kildare and Wicklow!

I wondered how many couples sneaked out here in the middle of the night to make it out in four states at the same time!

Across the state line I am running past the Ute mountains. The scenery is breathtaking. It is reminiscent of a spaghetti western movie set with red mountain cliffs that reach high into the sky. Its about 70 miles to the next big town. There was a small village after  about 25 miles. I arrived at a restaurant at a trading post there but it was closed because today is Easter Sunday.

A little later a woman stopped to give me a huge bag of candy and soda.

The next day a Navajo family stopped and gave me 4bottles of water. I had a good day that day. I made many stops but still managed to clock up over 61km / 38.5 miles

Despite all my water I am  not drinking enough. The air is very dry. My lips have developed a cold sore. It’s a bad one as its even hard to eat and brush my teeth.

I could not find anywhere to camp and ended up running after dark. Eventually I found a large hedge well off the road and dragged Nirvana across the field. It was a nice evening so I just pulled out my light-weight tarp,sleeping bag and bivy bag. I didn’t sleep well due to the wind. The traffic doesn’t seem to bother me. I guess I become immune to traffic noise at night as I hear it so much in the daytime.

I stuck my head out of the bivy around 7am and the sky was nice and clear. While in the middle of my packup the sky suddenly and without warning darkened. There was a crackle of thunder and a bolt of lightening. Hail the size of marbles pelted me for a few minutes. Luckily it lasted only a few minutes but I was soaked. I was frozen. Had I stayed in my bivy for a few more minutes I would have escaped this. 

I was soaked by the time I pulled Nirvana back to the road. A Navajo family were shocked when Irefused a ride to Kayente, a 2 hour freezing run away.  I stopped for 3 hours there at a restaurant to dry off and log onto their wifi.

I am running deeper and deeper onto the Navajo, native American reservation. I notice there are  no longer any cows, horses or even bird life as water is so scarce.

That night I sleep in a culvert under the road. The culverts here are no ordinary culverts. They are usually located at every mile marker. This one was huge. You could drive a truck through it. Later I was told this is because of the flash floods. All the water for the year comes in about 3 flashes a year. I don’t think I will sleep in one again, despite their convenience.

After a good nights sleep I ran another 60 plus km day. I felt so strong today. I ran all the way to a village called Red Lake. Just at the end of the day there was a massive climb. I was open-mouted as I approached it. It looked like a 3 or 4% I wondered how the cars didn’t fall off the hill!

At the top of the hill there was a Trading Post, which is what they call convenience stores on the reservation. I would love to get into a Navajo home but don’t have the nerve to hustle. I am finding them to be friendly but also have a strange reservedness, just like Nebraskans.

I pitch my tent beside an old shed behind the Trading post. I get the fright of my life when walking back across the gravel road I see what I  think is a black snake. It is about a meter long. Then I realize it’s just an old black cable, probably from the electrics of  an old truck.

I went inside the trading post for some coffee and cookies and asked the lady there. I am told there are no snakes or bears out yet as it is still a bit cold for them.  Another lady told me that only an hour ago she saw about 5 mountain lions on the way over Black Mesa. I am told not to worry. They don’t come down here.

After a 3 day break it took me a while to get going. The legs were nice and refreshed, just some minor stiffness after the mountains of the past couple of weeks.
It was a glorious day. I was running around Blue Mesa Lake in a bit of a dream just looking at the deep blueness of the lake had me mesmerized.
Just then a voice from behind startled me. It was a cyclist called David. Though he had been travelling around the world on his bike for the last 25 years on and off, he still calls Telluride home.
It was around 5pm. David said he was eager to hear more of my world run and as I previously cycled around the world we had a lot in common, except for the running So David suggested we stop in Sappinero for a six pack of beer, sorry we don’t have that in common either!
I really wanted to run on for another hour.
” Well I got some great Brazilian coffee! ”
That did it!
Expert camper, or master camper as I called him after all these years on the road had already picked out a secluded site out of view of the road and down by the lake.
David says that most summers he goes back to Telluride for the summer. he has an art studio but lives in the outdoors, preferring to live out of his tent, a real Grizzly Adams with the beard and pipe to prove it!
He already had his bike down the hill by the lake and had to return to help me with Nirvana over a couple of broken down barbed -wire fences. This is one disadvantage of pushing a jogging stroller in that it limits my camping opportunities as a bike is more moveable and flexible over obstacles etc.
We had a good old natter about my run and his routes over the years over the fire that master bushman whipped up while I was pulling my tent out of Nirvana. I couldn’t believe he had selected his tinder, set the fireplace and had a roaring fire with the water on for the coffee in just a couple of minutes. No sign of smoke either.
David told me that a Brazilian woman in Telluride made a documentary titled ‘ Woodsy ‘ about him living out of his tent. He could easily sleep in his studio or with friends but as he says life is much better in the outdoors and a joy to be woken up by the birds rather than an alarm clock.
Well I got woken up by a coyote at 4.30am, so much for nature!
I was planning to head west over Uncompagne mountain but many people had told me it was very desolate, much snow, washboard roads. Because of the desolation I would have to stock up on food for about a 4 day trip. That would be good news to the bears in the area! It is so difficult obeying all the rules in bear country. Hang your food out of a tree half a mile away from your tent. Don’t cook near your tent. Don’t sleep in the clothes you cook in. Don’t have any food or even toothpaste in your tent..etc, etc.
Bears are normally scared of human presence but as Sheriff Fred Wegener told me a couple of weeks ago.
” The are afraid of humans and their noise but the problem for the camper is when they are sleeping.
” I heard of a story of a bear who swiped a hole through a campers tent and took a lump out of his backside because he left a bar of candy in his back pocket! ”
Well the next day after parting with David I asked another couple of people about the pass. I was told there was snow on the way and the pass doesn’t get ploughed in the winter, nuff said!
So instead I headed for Montrose where I have a friend from my days when I used to race the Shavano Valley half-marathon. The race director, John Unger was a good friend of mine and I stayed in his home many times when in his area. We had somehow lost contact over the years but the new race director of the San Juan Mountain Runners forwarded my email.
John met me out on the road and we ran together for about an hour to where he had his car parked.
Steaks for dinner, and treated like a king. Then later over to his office to check out my body structure. Montrose’s number one chiropractor said that after almost 7,000kms I had normal wear and tear and was in good shape for the rest of the world run I couldn’t help wondering about the template for normal wear and tear for 7,000km!
So next morning, Sunday John drove me out to last nights finish location mile 100 just about 8 from town. We ran together. John later hitched a ride back for his car.
I ran onto US 550 south having a good day with 52.3km / 32.5 miles before John picked me up again. Like many other people I have met he has been very generous with commuting me to my start/finish locations and literally going the extra mile to give me another night in his home. Thanks John!
Almost forgot to mention I met an old buddy of mine from Gunnison on the road. Floyd Pais has had some family crisis and besides he is not really into computers,emails or even mobile phones so we never got together for a gossip but it was wonderful meeting him as he was on his way to (Grand) Junction for his granddaughters birthday party.
Floyd also ran John’s half marathon with me a couple of times. We also ran the Crested Butte mountain race series. We were bitter rivals and fairly well matched. Though I think Floyd just shaded our encounters it wouldn’t matter how many were in the race, we had our own battle and a lot of fun talking about it later. Now he has an ankle injury. Super Floyd 007 he likes to call himself. I do have the strangest of friends!
John brought me back to my finish in Ridgeway and just as I was about to get going an ultra running friend of his picked up Nirvana so I could run alone today.
Ricky Denesik has won the toughest mountain race in the world, the Hardrock 100mile  in a then record time in the mid 90′s. He also held the record for scaling all fifty-four 14,000 peaks in Colorado. He was so modest he wouldn’t tell me the amount of days it took!
It would have been nice to have heard all about this but as things worked out he was very busy looking after his child who was spending a few days with him. As it turned out David had noticed my route change on my Spot tracker and I was heading for Telluride. He told me the Brazilian documentary maker called Alisa who was interested in talking to me about a film. I was invited to stay at her place in Telluride.
I ran over Dallas Divide circa 10,000 feet of which 10 miles were uphill and about 13 downhill.
Deputy Sheriff, Chris White stopped me for a ‘ welfare check ‘ said he had been excited by my arrival since hearing about my run from the Colorado State Patrol a couple of weeks ago. He is an avid runner and gave me his number if I needed a place to stay. He seemed disappointed when I told him I was sorted.
An hour later another deputy, a female with very long hair stopped me.
” Where did you lose your bike? ” she asked.
” I running around the world! I normally run with Nirvana but a friend is bringing her over to me when he finishes from work. ”
Head scratch. ” very interesting! ”
I gave her my card, she asked me for my date of birth and middle initial. Very strange.
Back at Alisa’s house David came and cooked dinner while Alisa shot some introduction footage.
Same the next morning Alisa drove out and shot some road footage. I had another big climb ahead of me, Lizards Head Pass circa 11,000 feet. Before I even got near the climb there was another 6 mile climb. I call it a Colorado apertiff!
As I neared the summit I enjoyed the wonderful, most beautiful scenery I have seen anywhere. Colorado is certainly special.
I thought I had known the state from 8 years here but I am really getting to know it first hand now. Of all the areas of Colorado the San Juan’s is my favorite part. The San Juan National Forest also includes Lake City and Telluride.
Near the top I got lashed with hail and a strong wind and rain. This is my sixth and last mountain pass here in Colorado. As much as I love the mountains I have had enough. Just like a Tour de France rider who longs for the Champs Elise after grueling days in the mountains.
Alisa and David met me 4 miles down the pass and after photographing my finish mile marker they took me over to Rico hot springs I wish every day could end like this!
The next day was my birthday. Yesterday I finished at mile marker 53 and tomorrow I will run from there towards mile 54. Strange coincidence.
David showed me around Telluride. As we rode into town he told me about the sheriff that once lived here
. He was a real hippy hater. In those days there were just a few but then they came for the skiing and ended up staying. Soon the hippies were in the majority and voted the sheriff out of office.
I did a radio interview for KOTO radio an affiliate of NPR. It was fun.

No sooner had I arrived in Lake City when I met one of my old friends Jodi. She was working for the city and fixing a broken pump when I bumped into her in the town park. Jodi immediately offered me a place to stay in her house with her husband Bruce. Irish readers will know what I mean when I describe Lake City as  ‘ Glenrow in the Rockies. ‘

Though its called a city it’s really a very small  town with a winter population of about 250. In the summer this swells to a couple of thousand. Many of the summer residents are  well-off Texans. The town really depends on their income.

There is a very strong community spirit where everyone looks out for each other. I lived there for 2 years on and off from 1997-1999.

I remember once a man had an accident and was briefly confined to a wheelchair. Word spread out, immediately the Lake City lumber yard donated materials and all the towns carpenters had a wheelchair ramp built up to his house in a couple of hours.

Everyone will have a different story as to how they ended up here. It’s said people leave their attitudes at the town limits sign. Most stumbled into town by accident. Many years before I had read the classic America travel books by Peter Jenkins, Walk Across America and The Walk West.

 Jenkins had walked across America in five years. When in Colorado he had spent a whole winter on the Vickers ranch in Lake City. I had spent a lot of 1997 travelling around the states in my Winnebago motor home. I remember it well that Friday evening. I was at a crossroads and the sign pointed to Lake City. A subliminal message from Peter Jenkins’s book took me to Lake City. It’s 8,800 feet high up in the San Juan mountain range.

I made my way to Mammy’s (Whisky Bar And Diner) which seemed to be the focal point in town.

Though I was a drifter the locals welcomed me with much enthusiasm. Soon I learned there was an Irish Man called Aidan living in town. In fact he worked in Mammy’s as a chef but had already gone home as the kitchen had closed for the night.   Word got out and Aidan was dragged back to Mammy’s. Over the years we became close friends. Aidan has left town now. Many of my old friends have also departed for other places.

Back then I really enjoyed drifting around in the motor home. I used to go to Las Vegas, Death Valley, The Grand Canyon, Montana, Texas, New Mexico and many other places. I loved it. Every few weeks I would return to Lake City for a few weeks and just sofa surf in a friends place paying them about $50 a week rent when in town.

Drinking sessions between me and Aidan were legendary. Last week I was reminded of my 1997 Halloween party piece. Someone filled my cowboy boot up with beer and I drank it all in one go with a smile on my face. At the 1998 Halloween party I wore my flip flops.

There were a lot of smirks going around… ” So Tony, you not wearing your cowboy boots this year? ”

I didn’t disappoint, but lets put it this way I didn’t get as drunk that year and had more than egg on my face.

In fact in 1998 I was all set to walk around the world. I had bought all my equipment. That’s where the World Jog logo was conceived. Big black letters signifying a road with the white stripes signifying two lanes. World Walk had 2 hiking boots for the  letter ‘L’s ‘

That was a time before websites. The editor of the Lake City Silver World, Grant Houston had given me a small sponsorship and the deal was I would email back some on the road reports of my world walk. I described to a local computer design artist what way the logo should look like. He eventually got it up on his screen to my delight. I got the world walk tee-shirts printed. I still got them in Ireland. the world jog logo is a modification of that world walk logo.

 I got a letter of introduction from the Lake City mayor, Phil Mason to take on my world walk. I had the maddest of going away parties. Aidan drove me to Denver. We had another going away party in LODO and I took a flight to Ireland. With 4 days to go I changed my mind. (personal reasons) I decided to wait one more year. One more year turned into 13 more years before I decided my real dream was to run around the world and not walk.

I almost never returned to Lake City fearing a humiliation, a laughing stock. As someone said then… Tony it will just be a one week wonder and your real friends will understand, others wont matter. That’s the way it turned out. In fact nobody remembers the hiking boots. They only remember the cowboy boot now!  Upon returning I gave Grant his sponsorship money back. He had printed a big article in the paper about my world walk departure! You can imagine the surprise people got when they saw me walking around town.

So then there was the Lake City 50 mile mountain race. A brute of a race. It’s now called the San Juan Solstice 50 mile mountain race.

In 1997 many of the locals wanted me to run it but I refused as I had heard about how tough it was. I didn’t want to wreck my feet for my world walk was my reasoning. In 1998 I ran it and finished 8th. I was hooked on ultra running from that day. In 1999 I trained very hard. It was a more stable year for me. I got my own appartment and worked all year. In that race, at the last aid station with 3 and a half miles to go I was in second place about 8 minutes behind the leader. There was a very steep descent down the mountain into the town with about a one mile run in to the finish line in the town park. Descending kamikaze fashion was my strength at the time and I really went for it. I had made up 7 of the 8 minutes on the two and a half mile descent. On the town outskirts I had the leader in my sights and was closing fast. I believe he had thought he had the race won and was just cantering to the finish. My momentum and taking him by surprise would have probably beaten him. Suddenly all my friends saw what was happening and encouraged me by shouting.. ” Come on Tony, You got him! ”

Just then a terrified leader looked around. We both ditched our bottle bags and went for it both running a sub 6 minute mile in the last mile of a very tough 50 mile mountain race. Fair play to him. He held on to win by exactly one minute. I looked to my right. The local cinema was showing the movie, ‘ Gone in 60 seconds. ‘ I was heartbroken.

I have been told house prices here have been maintained. The reason is because the banks were careful not to loan to people that couldn’t afford, so there was not same property crash as in the rest of the country.

I stayed for another half day seeing some of my friends. Cookie the owner of Mammy’s is no longer the owner as the Arts Council bought her lifework and passion against her will, she is naturally upset. Her husband Michael an old boss of mine. Local character Booey. Jen the runner. I gave Grant an interview. Yes it’s happening this time Grant. I have returned and my tail is not between my legs, this time.