OVER THE BRIDGE AND INTO GUATEMALA

AFTER MORE THAN 3 MONTHS AND ALMOST 4,000KM IN MEXICO THE ROAD LEADS TO GUATEMALA

Road day 269 ended with me running into Guatemala after almost 4,000km in Mexico. Just one decent days running short of that grand total.

Not without the Mexican immigration trying to squeeze another visa fee out of me! I stood my ground and refused.

He said I didn’t have a receipt for my visa and didn’t like it too much when I asked him how I got the visa without paying!

I told him to go read my blog from the 3rd week in June and how I was worried I might get kidnapped in the town of Tecate as I made my way to the bank to pay the $25!

He made me wait over an hour while he emailed Tecate!

I don’t know why Mexico doesn’t just scrap the visa fee, just like Guatemala, a much poorer country. I felt the reason for getting the tourist to produce a receipt is to stop their immigration officers from pocketing the money. Why hassle the customer?

So only 21.8km run to the Guatemalan border town of  Tecun Uman. I celebrated by having a lovely chop suey in a Chinese restaurant.

The next day was also a bad day only 27 as I sheltered from the rain too long, better get used to it Tony, it’s monsoon time in Central America. I also missed my last bus after the run to my hotel and paid for a second hotel.The busses usually finish around 5 or 6pm due to robberies.

 This commute business is expensive but not as expensive as paying for a vehicle, expenses and a driver.

 Lots of crazy drivers and potholes. Things haven’t changed since I was here many years ago.. I wonder are they the same pot holes.

Some of the construction workers dont even have high-viz vests or safety equipment. The construction companies are so poor they don’t even have the red cones. Road lanes are closed off using a series of painted rocks and cut off-branches. Sometimes when they go home in the evening they leave the branches out on the road.

Another day I had to abandon the day as they would say in football, only 10.5km run.. I started at Puente los Ninos after a late start. The rain steadily got heavier and heavier and heavier. To my left in the hard shoulder were some of the drains I mentioned in another blog. Rebar protruded out of some of these meter deep uncovered drains. The road was flooded, ankle deep. Getting mega splashing was the least of my concerns… Abandon match. It is early afternoon. I find a hotel and start stitching extra pockets onto my cycle top to best distribute the weight around my being. I get the great idea that the pockets should be made from a cut up high-viz vest. I tried to count the pockets I got and loose count, no exaggeration, at least 20! It weighs a ton, especially when wet, It’s also loosing it’s wick-away properties, but it’s a monsoon, so worry about that some other time… When Tony gets a crazy idea, he has to do it!

Back on the road next day, what did I have? Do I have to keep talking about it? Lets just say… Guatemala is as green as Ireland and guess why!

LOVELY IRISH RAIN!

Oh.. I got stopped by the cops.. I have noticed they are up and down the road these last few days. Then they park and wait for me to pass till another comes the opposite direction.. I also ran the full 43 with my backpack today, very hard, gotta lose some more of it.

Anyway back to the cops.. I had been told this area as I run towards Escuintla and towards eastern Guatemala is very dangerous… Mucha violencia!

Next day I stopped the cops and asked were they looking out for me and I was told…. ” Si. ”

Then on the police radio in their patrol truck just as I happened to be standing there… I heard… ” El hablar Inglese? ”

THANKS FOR KEEPING AN EYE ON ME!

This is not exactly tourist area and I would imagine it was the first time the question ” Does he speak English ” was ever uttered over their airwaves!

Before I entered Guatemala, I emailed the government asking could they give me an escort, got spoilt in Mexico!

They ignored my email but it seems their undercover operation is not exactly discreet!

I felt great an with the help of an early start ran almost 64km.

To slow me down the next day the rains washed away a bridge. There was no sign and as Guatemala is a poorer version of Mexico I reckoned they couldn’t afford it. I should have known better as the road suddenly became quieter, Ah! well 2km each way without any credit and a long detour over a rough road. A week later when I am in El Salvador. I heard this border crossing was closed due to flooding, so I was lucky to get through. I understand there was also some serious flooding, damage and deaths.. So my thoughts are with those people. 

I thought of the man I met who was actually wearing a Dublin shirt! Did he know that Dublin are as the Americans would call it ” The World Champions ” in Gaelic football from a few days back!

He told me his name is Hector ( I never met a Hector till I came here and it seems to be a popular name!) His wife works in Dublin as a maid I think he said… It puts things, the flooding and all on a different level when I think of the Dubs shirt.

Hector and his friend Armando know the people that own the Super 24 gas station. There is an armed guard on duty with a rifle and a belt full of cartridges. That’s not unusual here in Central America as there is so much so much crime. Almost every half decent business have armed guards. When they change shifts I have seen them get off the back of their friends scooter with their rifle in hand. I have seen them in fast food restaurants and travelling in the back of beer and coke trucks! This is one of the reasons the buses finish so early as the conductor collects the money they are often targeted.

  I am allowed to sleep with the mosquitoes around the back on some cardboard. I will cross into El Salvador tomorrow. I am just about out of Guatemalan money. The currency is called something like Quetals which sounds like the Spanish for ‘ Hi ‘ I have been spending a week asking how many hi’s does something cost! 

Anyway as I was saying I am all out of ,as we would say in Dublin… ” How ar-yes ” I discover they allow me to use my credit card and have a gorge… I over did it…. Read this carefully, you will never ever see this ever again,! You did what Tony? I left food behind!   Sin a shame!

Well not exactly food, it was a half gallon of water.

Speaking of gallons… Petrol and diesel are sold in gallons and costs about the same as in the USA. It’s the same throughout Central America.

I am now out of the two countries most people were worried about…. Yes this gigs gonna happen!

MANY THANKS TO THE NORTH POLE MARATHON : THE WORLD’S COOLEST MARATHON FOR THEIR ONGOING LOYALITY AND SUPPORT FOR MY WORLD RUN. THEIR RECENT DONATION HAS MADE LIFE MUCH EASIER FOR ME PLEASE CHECK OUT THEIR WEBSITE HERE

I crossed into Nicaragua on Tuesday. Here is my planned route. Please click HERE  for map and details.

Oct 19th total to date is 12,798.5 km = 7,952 miles in 290 road days.

Oct 18th 2011. From Las Hormiga, Honduras I ran 13km to the frontier, crossed into Nicaragua. $12 visa at the border. Here route CA-03 started at km 205 so I ran to km 180 for 38km today. Pastor Martin stopped me at his church ” Finca Belen ” which is under construction and invited me to stay the night. Today I managed to run comfortably with my pack and did not need to commute.

Oct 19th 2011. From Finca Belen at km 180 to km 140 Villa Santa Catalina. Today as everyday for the last 3 weeks more torrential rain. This storm is raging all the way thru Central America and has devastated many communities in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras,Nicaragua and Costa Rica killing hundreds. I understand in Honduras 140,000 people have been displaced from their homes. The road today was partially flooded in places and at one stage there were also 1 meter deep potholes with a huge boulder on each side (in the middle of the road!) to warn motorists.

Brenda invited me to her family home for the night but soon after Kelly, Jackson and many other American volunteers from the Amigos For Christ organisation arrived and invited me to stay in their compound where I was fed,washed (saw my first mirror in 2 countries!) laundered and a bed for the night by these wonderful people. They are rebuilding whole communities, helping the poor. They also have some doctors that are treating and performing operations on many sick locals. Padre Martin stopped me today as he was transporting roofing tiles to his church in his tractor trailer. He gave me coffee and his hat when he heard I lost mine. I have a bit of a foot swelling problem going on at the moment and have been told it could be due to water friction. I MAY ease back in the next day or two

40km today. I ran all the way with my pack today. I am enjoying the purist way to journey run. Sorry the daily log has turned into a bit of a diary, I will try to catch up on the last 3 countries also! A bit dis-jointed for now. I am about 8km north of Chinadenga and commuted here with the volunteers.

October 17th total to date for 288 road days = 12,720.5km.

Oct. 14th 2011. Start Santa Rosa, El Salvador and ran 16.5km to the frontier. Crossed to Honduras, checked into hotel at border went out and ran another 20km to finish at Puente Seis at km20. When I decided to return 2 busses didnt stop for the gringo.. Need help from Hector who stood with me in torrential rain for over half an hour. Thanks Hector Today 36.5km run.

Oct. 15th. Rest day in Choluteca. I made a long commute here this morning and it was too late to return to km20. The bus drivers silly antics are having an effect on my time on the road.

Many thanks to David who allowed me to use his computer in his shop Moto Sur and his son Fernando who worked very hard in vain to help me with some technical difficulties.

Oct. 16th. 2011. From Fridays finish at km 20 to km 40 and then at a junction road changed to route Ca 01 starting at km 93.5 I ran to km 125 to a small community called El Marial (wrong spelling I am sure) Ran 51.5km today. Then waited almost an hour and a half after another racist bus driver decided not to stop after first pulling up. Thanks to local people for stopping the very last bus back to my hotel in Choluteca. Torrential rain today, running in puddles.

Oct 17th 2011. From El Marial to Las Hormiga. 56km today. Am now about 15-20km away from Nicaragua and will cross tomorrow. Felt strong today.Met some nice people. Ran on routes CA 1 and 3.

Next day in Oaxaca City,I went along to the Angeles Verdes office to meet with the chief who is called Jorge. It took about an hour and a half for him to realise the significance of my world run. I sat there explaining with another runner also called Jorge that I was running around the world and all other Angeles Verdes have helped me.

Then I mentioned to Jorge I would be leaving from in front of his office at 10am next morning as that’s where I finished last night. His eyes lit up.

” So Tony does that mean you want journalist there? ”

The thought never crossed my mind and to be honest I couldn’t be bothered. As I said I finished there and other runners were interested in running with me.

Suddenly everything seemed much easier. They would transport Nirvana to the Chiapas state line via Tehuantepec. An email and phone calls would be made to Angeles Verdes in Tapachula, Chiapas where I requested her to be sent. A detailed route was written out, we shook hands and I said ‘ Hasta Manyana! ”

Next morning I sauntered up bang on ten 0′clock. To be honest I was lucky my hotel was very close otherwise I would have been much later.

Waiting outside the Angeles Verdes office which was also shared with the Secretario de Turismo, were several journalists, a television crew from Azteca Tv, about 4 Angeles Verdes vehicles all with their drivers and assistants standing beside their vehicles like it was a show.

After the interviews and having thanked everyone I took Jorge aside and asked if he was going to have a vehicle with me today to carry my pack.

” Ah we can’t do that Tony, No gasoline, this is Mexico! We will give you about 10km. ”

” No Jorge, this is not Mexico! This is you. ” I responded.

I HAD A LOVELY RUN WITH JORGE AND MIGUEL OUT OF OAXACA CITY.

For the run out of Oaxaca I was joined by Jorge the runner and his friend Miguel. They both like to compete in triathlons. I ended up leaving my backpack in his car as his friend Juan was driving behind so as to take them home.

Jorge the chief was busy running back and forward from the vehicle he was traveling in to take photos. He was even snapping away as he sat on the open window frame of his car door as it drove along. I was praying the door wouldn’t open.

I ran on another bit with the lads so as they could get a half marathon.

That night I made it to a junction just outside Mitla which had a store and a gas station.

I asked the very nice lady if I could sleep on the quiet porch that night and in the morning if I could leave my pack there as I would return after my days running for it in one of the dozens of buses tearing up this road.

It seemed like a great plan till I lost the whole morning due to poor signposting at this complicated junction.

You see there was a road that veered off the highway towards Agua something or other. Often when this happens the highway number amazingly does not change for the shoot off. Even the kilometer signs continue with the same count as though it had not left the highway. Is this dumb or what!

I had been a bit suspicious most of the way and it was only after 10km when I came to a sign that said the road was closed ahead (just as well as I could still be running up there!) I stopped to ask a friendly driver and he pointed back the way I came, telling me to make a left turn after the junction I finished last night. I should have remembered that turn but was to eager to get to the goodies in the gas station!

So the whole morning was wasted. I didn’t count these kilometers and ended up with just over 36 ‘ official kilometers. ‘

My commute plan worked a dream as I returned to the junction gas station in a bus, costing just a couple of dollars.

I probably could have stayed there on the porch outside but on the road today in a town called Matalan I spotted a nice hotel wiith wifi so headed there in another bus. Tomorrow I will return to today’s finish at the military checkpoint at km 79.3.

Before I could leave the gas station I noticed a man moving around very slowly on a Zimmer-Frame. He had been there last night and tonight he was behind the counter.

Tonight as I sat at the table inside the service station drinking some juice I had thought I had heard a frail voice saying,

” Tony, Tony Mangan. ”

I started to take notice and realised it was the old man.

He was calling from behind the counter, from a vantage which I couldn’t see.

He was holding up today’s paper opened at the athletics section. A whole page detailing my run and all the while calling out…

” Tony, Tony Mangan! ” And the amazing thing was he was pronouncing my name perfectly.

His name is Victor. He told me he is 95 years old. He got me to sign and date his copy, then the lady made me a photocopy.

VICTOR, MY MEXICAN FAN!

On I went to the hotel where the young lad gave me free internet access, as the hotel also runs a ciber shop. He told me it was his way to support my expedition. He sat there reading the blog for the hour I was on. I could have done with an other hour but felt guilty as it was late and he had to be up early for university.

He and his mom and family lived in the states for many years.

Next day Eduardo came out to  take some more photos in his friend Eliezer Ramirez’s car. I understand Elizer has won some prestigious award for services to sport. He kindly sponsored me for a couple of nights in hotels. Thank you so much Eliezer and also to Jorge who I was running with yesterday. Jorge owns a sports shop and kindly gave me a huge discount.

Running with Eliezer Ramirez a winner of many awards for his services to sports. Thanks you Eliezer for sponsoring me my next pair of shoes!

I was a bit disappointed  when an attendant in a gas station store near La Ventosa told me to take my charger out of the wall socket. I said I just needed a quick 5 minute charge to send a very important text message. And then a second attendant also asked me to remove it.

I never got to send that thank you message to the mayor of Juchitan, Daniel Gurrion who kindly put me up for two nights in a hotel. I lost his card since.

On the left the mayor of Juchitan, Daniel Gurrion and his assistant. Mayor Daniel kindly put me up in a lovely hotel for two nights.

One man did slowed down on his scooter when I was a couple of days away from the Guatemala border. He said he wanted to help me. It was a hot day and I was out of water. I asked him could he take my water bottle to the next town or house and fill it up. He just drove away not thinking this was the help I really needed.

I got my first water refusal from a man in a store that sold motor oil two villages after the town of La Reforma. He had it alright, just couldn`t be bothered. A water refusal is a significant occurance, often there is  just one refusal on an entire world trip to a cyclist or walker in the travel books I have read.

On I ran into Chiapas State which many people warned me, especially Mexicans that it was a very dangerous place.  That’s not what I found. I found the people to be genuinely very friendly wishing me a Buenos Dias and a Buenna Viaje almost every time I met them on the road as they walked back and forward from the fields from their daily errants. Not once was I scared by the fact so many people carry machetes for cutting wood and even the grass. I have seen attendants mowing their lawns in blistering heat with a machete…Now that’s hard work. Import a lawnmower and you would be friends with the neighbours for life, till it ultimately broke like everything else around here. Of course the really smart people just tie a cow or a pig to a post and let them eat the grass down. I saw one pig that had eaten it all away and the poor thing was eating mud, all over his face.

It was a hell of an experience, 4,000km of a run with all its bureaucracyl and thanks to the Angeles Verdes, The various police forces, Civil Defence or Protection Civil as it is called here, government agencies, hotels, restaurants and those people that helped me, especially runners than ran with me. Thanks so much, you  have all played a huge part in the dream.

Oct 5th 2011. From km 136.6 (Guatemala) to km 125 La Hachadura, El Salvador border town 27km today, ran with pack, a bit heavy. Cross into El Salvador and going to use Playa Mizata as a base. Met John-Henry who was on the way to his girlfriend Christy’s house to stay with her and her parents Celio and Mabel. A quick phone call and I was invited to stay and use the family home as a base for 3 days while I commuted to my start/finish locations.

Oct 6th 2011. From yesterdays finish at km 125 El salvador border town  to km 80 Acajutla. Today I ran 45km. Note I decided to stay in km5 Restaurant/hostel and save the commute to Celio`s today hoping for an early start tomorrow.

Oct 7th 2011 From km 80 to Metaya at km 73.8. Today 42.2km run.

Note: From last nights finish location at a junction kilometer markers changed and I also ran 2km on a slip road. I didn’t get the early start,very tired this morning.

Oct. 8th 2011. From km 78.8  on route ca-02 Metaya to km 48 in Melara, at church,

Note: After running thru town of La Liberdad at km 35 markers which were counting down started counting back up! For rest of the day distances were not clear. I ran about 52km today but am claiming ONLY 50km! Total to date = 12,384km. Missed last bus back to Celio’s who came out 20km to collect me, also thanks to a resident of La Perla for phoning Celio.

Oct 9th. 2011. From km 48 in Melara to Cuyultitan at km 25. Today only 23km as after 14km I stopped at a (rare) supermar4ket and had a gorge! Result one sick stomach! I am learning many lessons, the hard way. Commute back to Hacienda San Diego.

Oct 10th 2011 From km 25, Cuyultitan to km 58 Zacateocoluca. = 33km run. Bad day as I was a bit dehydrated after (stupidly) not drinking enough after yesterdays diarrhoea (Imodium is great) Another lesson I knew but ignored

Oct 11th 2011. From Zacateocoluca to Usulutan at km 117. Today I ran 53km and it rained heavily every step of the way. I ran ankle deep in puddles, so no need to wash my feet tonight. A one hour wait for bus back to Zacateocoluca. Total for 283 road days = 12,493km

Oct 12th 2011 From Usulatan to San Miguel 43.5km today. Route Ca-02 and some back roads via San Jorge. I had an ugly experience there when a man appeared to go into his house and bring out 2 ugly dogs. And just looked on as they harrased the approaching gringo. I was told this was a very unsafe area and stopped to ask for a police escort. The officers said they couldnt because of the rain!! Eventually I pressurised them and they agreed. I ran in torrential rain for 3 more hours, pot holes, huge puddles and thankfully the puddles didnt cover 2 manholes which had missing covers on the road.

Oct 13th 2011. From San Miguel, km137 to Santa Rosa de Lima,km177. Route: Ca-07 commonly reffered to as ” Ruta Millitar” Am a couple of hours from the El salvador border now. 40km today.

Oct 14th 2011. From Santa Rosa de Lima, El Salvador I ran 16,5km here Crossed to Honduras and ran another 20km. 36.5km today. At the end of the day when I was returning to my hotel at the border town, 2 bus drivers did not stop for the gringo. This is a common occurance for me on the road in Central America. These busses were not expresses nor were they  full. Thanks to Hector for stopping one for me. He stood with me outside his shop for half an hour.

Hi all! I crossed from El Salvador to Honduras on Friday. I ran another 20km. This morning I  commuted to a new base in Choluteca.

I see the Google map and also the Spot Shared map did not update.

I am taking a rest day today, Saturday. I assumed there would be an internet cafe here but when I arrived at  the only place in town it was closed. It was too late to go back to where I finished running yesterday and thinking what a disaster as my rest days need to be computer days from now on. Just then a nice man called David was having breakfast at a cafe next door said I could use his computer in his bicycle shop, you know me, I said I would be down after my breakfast

Thanks very much David

What I mentioned above was of course not a disaster, as a real disaster hit this town overnight. I saw on the news that a bridge got swept away by the flooding. I understand this bridge is not on my route but another one is  where  the water levels are high, flooding some very low level buildings.

I do not know how long I can stay in Davids shop but will try to make inroads to my huge backlog!

12,613km run for 286 road days.

My Honduras route and details HERE

Please read from bottom up.

Oct 5th From km 137.6 in Guatemala to km 125 La Hachadura, El Salvador border town. 27km run. Many thanks to Celio, Mabel, Christy and John-Henry for putting me up in their home and allowing me to use it as a base for 3 nights

Oct 4th 2011 From Km 104.6 to km 137.6 on route ca-02. 33km today because bridge washed away and had to backtrack (those kms not counted)

Oct 3rd From km 58 Escuintla to km 104.6 at Taxico Junction on route ca-02 46.6 today. Note: Km markers changed direction

October 2nd 2011 From km 121.5 to km 58 in Escuintla.. Yes a megga day due to all the easy days I have had lately.

October 1st 2011 ( Dublin Marathon month!) From km 164.5 to km 121.5 on route 2 = 43km. Guess what, More rain. The cops are everwhere. I know they are keeping an eye on me as the govt ignored my email but think they have informed the local police stations.

Sept. 30th 2011. Today was abandoned after 10.5km due to more monsoon rain. This time the road was flooded, so I could not tell where the openb drains are and they are a meter deep with protrudin rebar so too dangerous and you can imagine the splashing I was a victim to! From finish at km 175 to km 164.5 on route ca-02, cant remember the name of the village, stayed in hotel stitching my clothing for hours!

Sept 29th 2011. A decent day at last! 50km From finish in Coatepeque km 225 to km 175 at Puente los Ninos. Crazy drivers, potholes the size of County Cavan and more monsoon rain.

Sept 28th 2011. Tecun Uman finish at km 252 to Coatepeque at km 225 on route ca-02. Late start and shelterd too long from torrential rain gave me only 27km

Sept 27th 2011. From Metapa de Dominguez, Mexico to Tecun Uman, Guatemala = 21.8km.

Enter Guatemala and Mexican immigration unsucessfully tried to screw me for another visa fee because I didnt have the receipt.. I stood my ground and asked well how did I get the visa!! Thats the reason for the low distance today.

OCT 10. In Zacatecoluca, El Salvador. People are wonderful. I was able to stay with one family for 3 nights in Playa Mizata and commute on busses to my start/finish locations for my running.   Thanks Celio, Mabel, Christy and John-Henry.

For 282 road days I have 12,440km run

I will be in Honduras in about 4 days time.

The backpack running going well but I need to get its weight down some more and for the moment using local busses to commute between starts  and finishes, for example today moved to new base here and 4 hours total commute.

As always thanks for support.

By the way, the dogs here are not hoarse from barking!! Most are friendly and just ignore me as they scavage thru rubbish at the side of the road.

My camera is out of action… Sorry Greg! I thought it was in its cover in my daypack and ran in a monsoon rainstorm last week in Guatemala… Another obstacle to overcome.

Also many people have promised to look into getting a shoe sponsor for me but to date I have only gotten 3 free pairs the entire run one from Russ in Canada and the other 2 from Ian Chivers in New York state, ta guys

This is becoming a joke with me everytime someone says they will look into it …At least 20 people! What can I say… Oh! Sure, Thanks!

In great spirits even though mornings very hot.

Talk soon, Tony

Hi All Internet access looks like a problem for now.

Update am in El Salvador having crossed Tuesday. 350km here next honduras a 150km ´long weekend job ´Ha Ha.

Distance to date.  circa 12,230k m stopped at internet cafe on road and cant afford more time, sorry. Its really hot and It is the winter here!

I got a huge amount to catch up on but another prob is internet cafes close early!

Talk later,

Tony