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Archive for March, 2013

The baby with the Irish accent

Friday, March 8th, 2013

Sunday morning the owner of the tavern brought me out a bowl of cereal and coffee before I finally got going at 11am. I had a slow start before picking it up after my only stop that day  for a monster ice cream in a supermarket in Hampden. The guy there just kept piling the ice cream up the cone, a triple scoop of course, goes without saying. It took me 20 happy minutes to eat. That kept me going till I clocked out for the day with 45k I finished in a small town called Palmerston where my host a tri-athlete called Andrew arrived at a conveniently placed finishing sign for the day.. Dunedin 52km sign was photographed, I would be dropped back here in the morning, a back track of about 14km.

Andrew

Andrew and his wife Cherie are a nice young couple who know how to enjoy life and the great outdoors. Despite my monster ice cream a bit earlier I had no problem in polishing off a delicious plate of chicken, rice and savory vegetables.

As Andrew works in a school in Dunedin my destination the following night he agreed to take my pack forward and give it to his colleague Heidi who was to be my host there the following night.

Well the start sign said Dunedin 52km but my route was along the longer breath-taking coastal route. Andrew suggested I stop for a second breakfast when I ran by the end of his road, so I did and Cherie loaded me down with bananas for the road.

Cherie with Charlie

On the coastal route I met Dave and Pam my friends from the backpackers hostel in Kaikoura about three weeks ago. They just pulled up and asked me what I was doing on that road, so I just said the same as you, taking the more scenic route. I meet so many people that I sometimes have problems putting names to faces, my head is in a spin by all the encounters I am having. We had a pleasant chat then they gave me mints for the road before driving on.

Pam and Dave

Back onto route 1 before turning left at the next village and over a back breaking Mount Cargill pass. More stunning scenery, more stops and then it was down, down, and down all the way to Dunedin on the left I ran by and not up Baldwin Street.

This was at km 54 of today’s 55, yes I ran by the foot of the ‘ worlds steepest street ‘ aka Baldwin Street. 161 metres long it has a 1 in 3.5 gradient and at it’s  steepest section is a 1 in 2.5 gradient. During the towns festival there is a race up and down the hill called the ‘ gut buster ‘

 

Next day I regretted not running up and down, hey 320.4  metres out of my way even if I did run an extra three to avoid the motorway into the city.

Baldwin Street. The worlds steepest street.

So, I got to the Botanical Gardens which Andrew suggested would make a good finishing spot for the day and called Heidi. I knew they lived up the top of a very steep mountain a fair bit out of town, so after my long day can you imagine how I felt when Heidi would have her Derek husband run down for me and I am thinking I would have to run up there. Any taxi service in town I am thinking, now that I have finished for the day! Then Derek runs down the road wearing a green tee-shirt and barefooted. I am thinking he is a tough runner but then I realized he brought his car and thankfully Heidi meant run down in his car :)

Many people here in New Zealand walk around barefooted. It has been this way for over 20 years I have been told, nothing to do with the recent very popular barefoot running fad. I am told it’s always been that laid back here. I never see a ‘ No shoes no service ‘ sign.

I very much appreciated the effort Heidi and Derek made as they literally have their arms full with their three month old baby Luca.

We had a laugh or rather Derek and Heidi had a laugh because their bathroom has a strange door lock and despite Derek showing me how to open it, old man here with his last remaining brain cell run out of him manages to get locked in the bathroom.

So I holler and holler till eventually they hear me and a laughing Derek releases me.

Next morning he tells me they were in stitches thinking the noise was coming from the baby alarm.

” Derek is that Luca shouting?

” Well Heidi he was only three months yesterday and I don’t think he can talk yet! ”

” But what’s that Derek? ”

” Heidi our baby doesn’t talk with an Irish accent… Is there something you haven’t told me!! ”

Derek, Heidi and young Luca with the Irish accent

Next day no fear of me getting locked in a bathroom as I finish at a pretty lake in Waihola. I stop for a pot of tea at a tavern. No  where to stay here, it’s looking bad, no shelter. I find a children’s playground and roll my sleeping bag out under the sheltered platform of a slide, a new one! Still the soft pebbles were more comfortable than concrete. It looked like it was going to rain but it never did.

In the morning at the petrol  station a nice man gives me free coffee and two meat pies for my breakfast

I also find someone who can drop off my pack in Balclutha 43km down the road. She is only too delighted for she said she heard me on the radio a couple of weeks ago. Around lunch time I ran through a place called Milton which is famous for it’s kink in the middle of it’s main street. Apparently there are two debated reasons why after several straight as a die kilometres the towns main street does a swerve and moves over one street block. The first explanation is the towns folks wanted to preserve a big tree and routed the main street around it… Too boring an explanation, even the Green Party wouldn’t do that!! Well perhaps they would!

The explanation I believe is that two surveyors when plotting out the streets location sarted at opposite ends of the town from each other. They were both reading off the same side of their surveying sticks and made a huge boobie! Yeah! That’s more fun!  Can you believe I ran through there and didn’t even notice huge kink in the road. To me this is just gimmicky tourist attraction baloney, still I would have stopped for a photo had I noticed!  To my slightly cynical mind tourism people would do anything for a gimmick – the amount of times people have asked me did I not stop and look at such and such an historic bridge or beautiful lake is amazing.

Balclutha town is small but spread out. Speaking of historic bridges, which I mostly ignore… I ran over a large bridge. This time there was a decent pedestrian path. It’s an old bridge opened in 1935 at a cost of 1,400 pounds. Interestingly someone called DH has scratched their initials in the concrete rail when it was wet in 1934 and nobody bothered to remove it, I felt it added to it’s authenticity and great grandeur.

I made my way through the town stopping in a petrol station. I bought a litre of milk, heated a cup of it up in their microwave and added a couple of coffee bags. The friendly lad there gave me a meat pie, seems to be an area for meat pies. The backpackers hostel was closed down. I looked around for a place to stay. Noticing a gap of a metre between a wall and the Presbyterian church was tempting. I am sure I could have gotten some cardboard from the petrol station. I gave it a miss, must be getting soft!

After a bit of wandering around I discovered the fire station. Some of the volunteers were just locking up the office, so I asked for permission to sleep under a covered area for the fire trucks, sure go for it, I was told.

‘ Go for it ‘ is a very popular phrase here in New Zealand. I love it… Visions of everything is possible. I wonder why a sports shoe company doesn’t use it for a trademark.

I pulled out a few old carpets from a pile against a wall and settled down. Then I pulled out a fireman dummy and used his leg for a pillow. I woke up in the middle of the night and said.. ” Mister.. Did anyone ever tell you that you have a bony leg! ”

Then don’t laugh… I climbed up on him and used him as an air bed… Nice and soft till I threw him aside when I fell between his legs in the middle of the night!! Yes I did say… Don’t laugh :)

Air mattress for the night!

Next day I ran with my pack the whole day. I ran into Clinton and I could hear that voice say.  ” I did not run with that woman! ”

Yes Clinton is a small town here and astonishingly the very next town up route 1 is called of all things Gore..

Signpost in Clinton pointing the way to the next village Gore

Whats the chances of that ever happening and not named after President Bill or vice president Al Gore as I had wondered. These towns are as ancient as any of the others I have run through with all their war memorials on display dating back to the First World War. From Clinton I took the Old Coach road and didn’t get to see Gore. I had a decent 10 hour slept in a field under a nice clear sky. 54km that day.

I did not run with that woman!

Only two big distance days till I reach the Pacific at the end of New Zealand. I got off to a nice start that penultimate day enjoying my run all the way to Dacre. I had an invite to stay in a small village off my route called Wyndham. Brian, my host is the cousin of Alan Knox whom I stayed with in Auckland. He and Rose picked me up on the road in Dacre 20 km past Wyndham for I need the extra few kilometres to finish at a respectable time tomorrow.

Brian and Rose

Next day I took a rest day, My first in 36 days, a record for the run.

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Tasmania has been run!

Wednesday, March 6th, 2013

Hi Everyone, Yes still alive and kicking despite not much internet in over a week. Yes Tasmania has been run. I had considered running a couple of days further on along this coast, west even though I finished a day beyond my original proposed finishing location of Devonport. There is a ferry from there to Melbourne, so that would have been the more logical finishing spot. Instead I ran an extra 48km today to finish in Burnie, home of Vlastik Skvaril a Tasmanian ultra running multi record-holder and several times trans Australia and trans Tasmania runner.

Vlastik ran with me much of the last few hours before I touched into the Bass Strait sea to complete my crossing from Hobort. We had a wonderful chat about many of Vlastik’s races.

Vlastik then brought me back to his house for my first shower in Australia! I am going to spend a few days here with Vlastik and his wife Jo who are kindly hosting me. When I heard he lived here I just had to run the extra day. Burnie is also the home town of my great friend Phil Essam who has swapped several thousand emails with me over the last 7 or 8 years. Phil has been an advisor of sorts even during my competitive career. He will be co-ordinating much of my run through the mainland starting in less than a week. Unfortunately Phil now lives in Canberra, the capital, he was following my progress live by the Spot tracker on this site wasting no time with his well done message.

Thank you Phil, Tasmania has been dedicated to you :)

Yes I have had a wonderful time in my week on the roads. As always I met many wonderful people. I hope to get that blogged before flying to Melbourne on Sunday night. Sorry for this jaded update I am zzzzzzing Talk Thursday

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Through the epicenter of the Christchurch earthquake

Friday, March 1st, 2013

The ferry from the North Island docked in Picton port on the north end of the South Island. For some strange reason I forgot to touch the water as is my custom whenever starting or finishing from an ocean or island.

Now for the South Island!

It was a glorious nice warm Saturday afternoon. My destination that first easy day was Blenheim some 28km away further on down south on state highway 1.
Suddenly a car pulls up and a man gets out. His name is Doug from Adelaide in Australia. He tells me that a mutual ultra running friend Sarah Barnett also from Adelaide had sent him a message saying I was in this area.
Doug who described himself as a rocket scientist for the Australian Intelligence Service, or more excitingly as a spy to me! He told me he was about 150km away and when he heard about my run he just had to hire a car and come out and run with me! I am honored! Amazing :)
So he drove on ahead and then ran back to me till we reached his car and did this for about an hour till we reached Blenheim. On the way he told me he would love to stay in the backpackers hostel with me but had to go back and feed the cat! Some spy I laughed. He explained that he had done a house swap with some people who are staying in his home for a week or so while he stays in theirs. This is a common enough arrangement by people that want a base for an agreed period of time. There are websites for house swaps if people are interested. Often the people agree on using each others cars etc. However Doug was a bit scared to use the one left at the house he swapped for because it was ‘ a big fancy and expensive job! ‘ Instead he preferred to pay US $200 for the hire car.

What a shock..Secret agent Oh OH Doug came out to visit and run with me :)

What a man! He also went on ahead and found the backpackers for me, stopped in a wine store and when the attendant asked what he was up to that day the attendant mentioned that his boss Clive Mc Farland who owns a cafe called ‘ The Store ‘ would love to meet me. So I was given Clive’s details with the promise that the attendant would email Clive. It was 66km away, an awkward distance if I didn’t get an early start.
I never did get that early start so decided to run to the Store in two days, a waste of a half day but I got to make the best of whatever opportunities present themselves to me.
So I just ran 26km that day as there was a backpackers in Seddon. That would do nicely as I can run the other 40 tomorrow.
It turned out that the backpackers hostel was officially closed down, but a nice man called Al let me stay on a mattress on the lounge floor. Al seemed to be a long time resident/caretaker while he worked in the grape picking farms in the area. He cooked me a dinner and breakfast before leaving for work next day. The night before he pointed out the Southern Stars in that nice clear sky that night. It was my first time ever seeing the.
Before running out of Seddon I sheltered for a while outside a cafe as there was a drisly rain for an hour or two.
Eventually I went inside for a coffee where the nice owner called Donna gave me three welcome sandwiches for the road.

Thank you Donna!

When I did eventually reach The Store in Kekerangu that day it was closed. The number I had just rang out. I went hunting for Clive the owner. First stop was a house across the road.. A nice couple having a bar-b-q around the side of their house pointed me up a steep hill where Clive lived. They gave me a tasty Frankfurter for my hike up the hill.
As I guessed Clive hadn’t been informed by his employee about my arrival. The sky was darkening and it looked like rain that night. Fortunately he realized I was not a loony tune and offered me his workshop out around the back of his farm. That would do nicely for me, so I just pulled over a couple of sheets of plaster board and settled down.
Around 2 am he came over to the workshop, told me he had managed to fire up his computer and check out this website, I was told I was doing well and he felt sorry for the ‘ poor bastard ‘ as he put it that he had condemned to a night on his workshop floor. So I just left my things there and climbed into his pickup truck. Clive drove over to his house and gave me a spare bed for the night, pair play to him for getting out of his guilt ridden bed in the middle of the night! He told me to drop over to the cafe for breakfast in the morning on my way out of town.
So I did the nice staff there took photos and gave me coffee and a muffin. To be honest I was starving and really needed to eat but as Clive was a kind of a host I was a bit embarrassed to order an Eggs Benedict off the menu.
Thank goodness for Donna’s three sandwiches which I ate yesterday!
I stopped to tell a couple in a broken down camper my story. They were a nice young hippy type and gave me chocolate and bread. If only there were some shops, this patch had taken me by surprise. That day I stopped at a campground. The shop was closed and when the lady saw my disappointment she gave me bananas.
I tell you the people of the world are honest to good decent people, nobody will ever try to ram it down my mouth we live in a bad world, it’s just the so called bad apples we just keep on hearing about from the media.
I think people who are mean-spirited are sad people who should be pitied.
That night I stopped at Ohan Stream Point and knew there was a backpackers in Kaikoura, some 24km away.
At my finishing point there is an area where baby seals gather for the winter, I will check it out in the morning when I return.
I hitched a ride from a tour guide who pointed some snow out to me high up on some mountains. I have never seen that before he told me, the climate is changing here, strange things are happening and you know we have no ozone layer here over New Zealand. There is a huge hole in the ozone layer.
In the backpackers I met a nice Australian couple called Dave and Pam. They had not heard of the baby seals and when I told them they said they would check them out in the morning and drop me back at the same time.
So they did and I ran a lazy 24km that day leaving my pack in the hostel which was called The Lazy Shag that day, I would stay another night. I bought a load of pasta in the supermarket and when I got back to the hostel I just started eating chocolate and biscuits not really bothered to cook, I just fried my steak as Dave gave me a plate of veg and potatoes  so I gave them the pasta, sauce and all.
Back in my dorm, which was mixed there was a girl who seemed to be upset. She told me she was too sick to get up that day and had spent the day in bed. It turned out she was upset about her boyfriend changing his Facebook wall and had an argument with him on her mobile, I tell you some people have problems!
Another couple of good days to make up for recent slackness saw me pound out 50 and 54km.
I had stopped for water at a closed down for the day cafe called Mainline Station Cafe in a village called Domett.

John In the Mainline Station Cafe in Domett

The owner, a man called John gave me a sandwich before I left. He asked me did I want to eat it there or take it away. I said I would eat it there and  figured he would offer me one also for the road, correct, I been doing this too long!
John was a runner so I asked him to join me for a while on the road, he said he was busy but only ten minutes down the road his wife dropped him off for a ten km run with me saying she would pick him up later, I said I would pick my pack up from her when she returned!
On the run John told me about the Christchurch earthquake of 22nd February 2011 in which 160 people died. He said his wife Ester had contractions just before the earthquake struck. They were on the way to the maternity hospital in Christchurch. There was chaos all around, most people were leaving the city. They couldn’t phone the hospital as all the communication systems were down. He managed to drive up behind a police vehicle and drive very close and fast. The cop didn’t know or seem to mind. Eventually just 2 km before the hospital gridlock meant they could drive no further, so they parked the car on the verge and walked to the hospital! Young Seth will always be reminded of his birthday that eventful day, that’s for sure.
John suggested that when I reach Greta Valley that night to check out the tavern of the same name there as the locals are good people. I had stopped so many times that day that I arrived very  late. Indeed the people there were very nice Darron and Jo ran the tavern. They gave me sandwiches and 20 year old  Ricky who is a truck driver gave me a bed in his apartment next door to the tavern.
So while I ate my sandwiches and drank tea he told me how much he loves his job and will always be a truck driver, he is delighted by his NZ$20 an hour pay (about 13 euro)
He works M-F and is also a volunteer firefighter.

Shining lights, With Rick in The Greta Valley Tavern where I was made to feel at home.

Next day I finish a 45km day at a cafe bar called Castle Park. Instinct told me to stop for the night so I did and after talking to the owners Malcolm and Linda they tell me I can sleep on the covered deck on  a sofa they pulled outside while I showered in the staff changing room. I am just 40km away from Christchurch now.
I reach a village called Belfast, or rather reach a bypass for I never saw the place. Instead bizarrely I met two cyclists one from Co. Down and the other from Belfast in Northern Ireland of all places and at this time, the only northerners I can remember meeting on the whole run, timing is everything! They are travelling very light, so many cyclists are overloaded and as the man said.. ‘ You only need one pair of socks! “
I run on towards Christchurch and see the signs of the earthquake damage. Buckled roads, cracked and broken away pavements, swamped over cycle ways  signs warn of the damage. I am told the city centre which suffered badly is a sad place. Most of the victims were in the CTV television building when it struck at ten minutes to one that fateful afternoon. I was told had it struck ten minutes later that so many more people would have been back from lunch and the causalities would have been much greater.
I had a contact in Christchurch, a friend of my friend Alan Knox from Auckland. Her name is Valmai. A kind-hearted woman who has fostered about 25 children over her lifetime. I was told she would gladly foster me for the night and when I returned after running the country awaiting my flight to Tasmania.

You can see the buckled road.

Yes indeed Valmai was like my New Zealand mother, so many mothers I have collected over the course of the run, it’s amazing. She could not do enough for me it seemed. Spoilt me, did my washing and allowed me to have some stuff sent here including my 32 pair of shoes which I ran out of her drive way with the next day.

Dave, Valmai and Phil. Photos of some of Valmai's children.

Two men also were staying there called Dave and Phil. Dave went down to the supermarket bought some pasta, tuna, bananas and cereal bars for me for the road. He then cooked up two pasta meals putting them into plastic containers for me to stuff into my backpack.I will be back after I run the last 610km of my 18th country of the run.

Christchurch has suffered a lot due to 2 relatively recent earthquakes in recent years.  In September 2010 a 10 minute rattle of the city caused much damage but as it occurred in the middle of the night miraculously nobody was killed. A second earthquake occurred in February 2011 in the afternoon which unfortunately took the lives  of around 160 people. This lasted just 18 seconds and caused significant damage to the cities infrastructure and peoples homes.

So obviously people are still dealing with these issues. I saw much of the damage on the run into the city.

I am told there are about ten fault lines here, nobody realized the area was such a high risk zone.

I didn’t get far that day for it was a late start, then I walked around the centre of Christchurch to see the earthquake destruction and to pay my respects. I made 28km finishing at a BP station in Rolleston where I rolled out my sleeping bag on a picnic table around the back

Then at breakfast in the station next morning a nice couple offered to drop off my pack in Ashburton, that was 61km away and just as well for it was a tough plod.

On the way I ran over New Zealands longest bridge, over the Raika river. It was a tight squeeze as I hugged the rails on the very narrow 2km bridge which had me sprinting between the gaps of heavy traffic. This was pretty scary stuff as often I had to jump off the bridge and onto the half meter pedestrian footpath whenever a vehicle approached. The fun started when trucks came from the front as well as the back. Everyone was in good spirits, the only honk I got was a ‘ good on ya matey ‘ honk from a trucker that held back from behind to let an advancing truck pass. I couldn’t help reflecting on those terrible drivers of southern Peru. Had this been there I would have been blasted off the bridge!

Tighter than it looks!

Over the bridge and into a cafe I went for a double one, no not whiskey, an ice cream which I felt I deserved. I had been fairly worried about this bridge and many others in New Zealand, this one in particular and this was the reason I did not take Nirvana with me across New Zealand.

I ended up sleeping in a park under some fir trees with some low lying branches. I have always found fir trees offer decent shelter and the pines are nice and soft to lie on.

That Wednesday I stopped in the Chequered Flag Cafe Bar in Rangitata just for a snack. The Dutch and English owners Cor and Linda are both avid Harley fans. They offered me a bed for the night.. It took us a while to get talking but once we did I made more new friends, so many decent people I am finding in this great world of ours. I had breakfast with Cor and Linda before running out of the lives of the latest people I have made friends with.

Cor and Linda

A 53km day was rewarded by sleeping under a covered area at the side of a church that Valentines night in Pareora..

On and on I ran towards to bottom of New Zealand another marathon before this road runner decided enough was enough stopping at Jeff and Glenda’s Elmwood Farm in Moreven.

Two Wallies!

Nice people after frightening the life out of them they took me inside for a bed for the night, fed me a delicious dinner when I stopped by just before a rain shower to ask if I could sleep in their barn.

Jeff told me he is a dairy farmer working 15 hour days, seven days a life. I asked him why dairy cows don’t make good beef cows and he told me it was because all the protein is milked out of them. His boss has almost 2,000 acres of land, his job is to keep the grass growing and as he called himself ‘ the old maintenance fart ‘ of the farm.

Meet Glenda, Jeff has already gone to work on the farm

 

I run on, many people stop me to talk and take photos, I always stop but it’s so time consuming. I run over the 45th parallell half way between the equator and the South Pole but in a way it’s meaningless as I also ran through it in South America also on my way south. In many ways New Zealand is an extra country on the run or at least from Auckland to Christchurch because if you draw a line over from South America on a map I could well have started from Christchurch or even Sydney in Australia, making a huge corner cut, not my style as many readers know.

I finished with 46km to show for the day in Maheno.  There was a tavern in this small hamlet called the Maheno Tavern. A glance over the premises lasting barely a millisecond told me it was a great place to bed down for the night as it had a covered decking, was in a quiet area off the road. The bonus that Saturday night was there was a 60th birthday party going on, and that meant FOOD to me :)

In I walked in my scarecrow outfit headlight on my head, more instant friends pointed me over to finger food table which I had barely taken my eyes off despite two renditions of my route, that’s starting to sound like a highly polished song these days.

Spot the odd one out!

At the bar I ordered a pot of tea and detected an eyes to Heaven for they were busy but of course nothing is a problem to the wonderful smiling Kiwi people. A large pot with extra water was served, I even went back for a refill to keep my three platefuls of the tasty finger food company. I talked to many runners at  the party that night before they all eventually left and I could settle down on a cushioned bench out on the deck.

 

Yes I know I talk a lot of this!

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About Tony

I have always considered myself to be an average runner. In school, I was even bullied for I was a sports wimp. Through hard work, dedication, perseverance, self-belief and a strong mind I succeeded in not only running around the world but breaking four ultra running world records during my competitive career. Having previously cycled around the world I didn't start running until I was almost 30. Then I had a dream of running around the world. For many reasons, I waited for over 20 years. One reason was to establish my pedigree as an endurance athlete. I started and finished my world run as the current World Record-Holder for 48 Hours Indoor Track 426 kilometres (265 miles), a record I have held since 2007. I also broke and still hold the World Record for 48 hours on a Treadmill 405 kilometres (251 miles) in 2008. When I retired from competition, more pleasing than any of my world, European or Irish records I had the respect of my fellow athletes from all over the world - in my opinion, sports greatest reward - an achievement I am most proud of. Then I finally put myself out to pasture, to live my ultimate dream to run around the world! This blog was written on the road while I struggled to find places to sleep and to recover from running an average of 43.3 kilometres or 27 miles per day for 1,165 road days. There were many nights I typed this blog on a smart phone, so fatigued my eyes closed. Many journalists and endurance athletes have referred to my world run as the most difficult endurance challenge ever attempted. During my expedition I rarely had any support vehicles, running mostly with a backpack. In the more desolate areas I pushed my gear, food and water in a cart which I called Nirvana, then I sent her on ahead to run with my backpack once again over altitudes of almost 5,000 metres in the Andes. I stayed in remote villages where many people had never seen a white person before. I literally met the most wonderful people of this world in their own backyard and share many of those amazing experiences in this blog. My run around the world took 4 years. There were no short cuts, I ran every single metre on the road while seeking out the most comprehensive route across 41 countries, 5 continents, I used 50 pair of running shoes and my final footstep of the run was exactly 50,000 kilometres, (almost 31,000 miles) I eventually finished this tongue in cheek named world jog where I started, at the finish line of my city marathon. I started my global run with the Dublin Marathon on October 25th 2010 and finished with the Dublin Marathon on October 27th 2014 at 3 05pm! Thank you for your support, I hope you can share my unique way of seeing the world, the ultimate endurance challenge! Read more...

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