Once again I was caught out when Policia Municipal officer Sergio arrived at my motel in his pickup. Sergio will escort me about 40km through the start of the desert area.I was still having breakfast at 7.20. Our arrangement was for between 7 and 8. He said he would return at 8.30, perfect I said.
Though much of Baja is pretty barren, most people consider the 362 km stretch from El Rosario to Guerrero Negro to be the most desolate. There are long, long stretches without any services and no water between the few small settlements, odd restaurant or store.
This is the part that so many people familiar with Mexico said was the toughest route.
The first 30km was mostly uphill and as usual very little down hill. I ran on the right side of the road in the middle of the lane with Sergio about 5 meters behind. As you know I normally run on the left so this is a great opportunity for my left foot to get a break from the sloped cambered highways of the world. Really a good break for my bodies biomechanisms.
It was about 30 degrees C. I cover myself up well now. I run in the cotton pants I always used for my ‘ good wear. ‘ I also cover my arms but should probably try wearing a light loose fitting shirt.
On the way I saw a very strange and sad sight of a poor old, obviously a bewildered man. He was walking instead of towards El Rosario he was heading out to the desert. At this stage he was about 15km out of town. As I approached I saw him stoop down and pick something up. It was brown and from a distance I thought it was a coat that he dropped. In his hand he carried an almost full gallon jug of water. When he saw us he left the item on the road alone and walked on about 20 paces. Then I noticed it was a road kill turkey. I gave him some more water, with the confusion of approaching traffic I never though of offering him some of my vast food supplies or even a few pesos.
As we drove on he walked back towards the dead turkey.
About 5km further on up the mountain, Shyme an Indian born Canadian cycled up behind me on his mountain bike. He had heard about me in San Quentin a couple of days ago where he took a rest day.
Shyme spent his young life in southern India till his father emmigrated to Texas and then moved to San Jose, California. He studdied and worked as a mechanical engineer before moving to Vancouver 10 years ago.
As he cycled slowly beside me for about 5km he told me that he just jacked in his job and decided to cycle from Alaska along the well worn beaten path through the Americas down to my ultimate destination, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego.
He said that as this is his first cycle trip ( and what a first effort!)
He eventually decided against starting in desolate Alaska as it was wise to start in familiar territory and around bicycle shops. So he set out from Vancouver a couple of months ago.
Shyam’s route is almost identical to my own and so too is his timing as he plans on making many stops and to arrive at the world most southern town in September or October of next year. As he cycled on we didn’t say goodbye, just good luck and both wondered how many times we will meet again.
I ran on about another 10km before Sergio said he needed to turn around. I had been taking short breaks every 5km to refill my water bottle that I carried in my hand.
Sergio told me the Rancho el Descanso was about 9km up the road. There is a motel there. Ramon the tourism secretary had arranged my stay… Thanks again, Ramon!
So as Sergio prepared to unload Nirvana, regular readers know that I have made many slip ups in this situation.. No messing this time I asked him if he could deliver Nirvana to the motel for me, saving me a hard push at the end of a long,hot, hard day.
Sergio duly obliged. I ran 2km till he returned. He stopped and we shook hands through his open passenger window. Another great Mexican police officer.
Just then I spotted Shyme coming out of a restaurant, the first place all day and after 46km.
We laughed about probably meeting so much on our journeys. I had a coke before running the last few k’s, 49.6 for the day.
I arrived at the Rancho shattered, requested 5 minutes Tony time before the multidude of questions hit!
It turned out that Ramon and Tomas, another officer from the department of tourism is good friends of the good people here and they are gifting me a room and meals. I am not really sure who is making the calls behind the scene setting things up for me but I obviously appreciate all your hard work. Thank you also Maria- Elena 
I had wondered about the room which was furnished by many porcelain elephant statues on a counter top, Sacred Heart and Virgin Mary pictures on the walls. I am scared I will knock one of the porcelain statues over as there are so many crowded in a small space. It didn’t resemble a regular rental. I guess a spare room. Maria-Elena was a bit embarrassed that it wouldn’t be up to my ‘ usual luxurious standards ‘ I told her she should see some of the places I have slept in. It’s Heaven! Muchas Gracias.
I soon discovered at 4.57am to be precise. Remember that time from when the pastor back in Testerazo on my first night in Mexico knocked on my door at the exact time, unreal!
Well here at 4.57am a man pushed my door in as the lock was broken. I didn’t know who it was, he spoke in fast Spanish and told me it was too early to knock on Maria Elena’s door. I didn’t really know what to do, well I should have got up and run but it was dark for the generator was turned off for the night. So I just went back asleep!
It turned out the intruder was Maria-Elena’s husband Marcelino who I met on the way in here yesterday but for some mad reason he did not know I was staying in his room!
Their daughter-in-law, Zenaida with a lovely smile made breakfast. I presented the family with a large Mexican flag that someone had given me as a present for it was too big for Nirvana.
Two different police officers came over to escort me today. Jose Luis and Rafael.
Jose Luis speaks fluent English so I learnt a lot from him today.
I ran on with the two officers folling me closely in their patrol truck. It was heating up fast. After about 12km we came to a cafe but unfortunately it was closed. There was a caretaker that came out to talk to us so I took a break and sat on a rock under a shady tree. Just then a local stopped by and gave us all the tastiest of cold fruit sodas
The caretaker told me that a couple of months ago an American man walked through here. He was on his way to Tierra del Fuego. They said he was crazy as he was walking with no shirt on and it was so cold here! Someother I doubt if I would have found it cold here twomonths ago, I guess it’s all relavive.
Ten k further down route 1 we stopped at an auto repair place that sold sodas and snacks. I bought the lads theirs. We sat talking to the friendly locals and once again the conversation came up about the crazy American walker. Everyone laughed when I said in two months time they will be talking about the crazy Irish runner running through Baja at the hottest time of the year!
Then Jose Luis told me about the young Italian man that came to Catavina 3 years ago. He came to study art and photography of the area.
” It was also July, so very hot. He wandered out onto the trails on his own as he didn’t want to pay for a guide or request help. He got lost and after examining his camera we discovered he was desperately trying to find his way back to the highway. The poor man was taking pictures at night. I suggested he was desprately trying to show his position by using his flash.
” We found his bones four months later, he still had all of his possessions, so he was not robbed or murdered.
” When we did an authopsy we discovered a lot of cactus in his intestines where he tried to eat it. We also discoverd urine stains in his water bottle, so desperate was he for a drink.
” Then his sister came over to Catavina with an Italian journalist that wrote horrible things about the town. We are still suffering from his bad publicity and he did not even bother to do his research. ”
On I ran for another hour and a half in the sweltering 36 degree C heat. It was mid-afternoon.
We stopped at another cantina where the owner gave us sodas on the house and made bowls of soup for the officers. I just picked at a burritto.
It was now 14km from my planned finish location. I was really shattered but dug in really deep. I stopped a couple of times for water at the truck for water and took short breaks, why not, no hurry, run smart. I am not running very fast now, just plodding along in the heat. We are going to set out at 4am in the morning.
With about 3km to go I asked Jose Luis to shoot some video, then he and Rafael drove on to the finishing marker 159. I recorded some more at the marker saying how wonderful Mexican people are and how it is such a great place to come and visit. A man was walking over to us and I used him as an example in the interview and said..
” The Mexican people are wonderful just look at this man coming over to see if I need any help! ”
Then the man said..
” I don’t know what you mean I am from Minneapolis! “
We drove on to Catavina and will return to this marker bright and early in the morning.
Jose Luis and Rafael dropped me at the 5 star luxury Hotel Mison Catavina where the good manager Marcial Antonio gave me two complimentary nights here Thanks so much!
Later Poly the restaurant waiter gave me first class 5 star treatment. I got me teeth into the juiciest tenderest steak I have had in a long while Lashings of desert, tea and leomonade all on the house!. It is now midnight as I type this, so I need to get some shut eye as the lads are picking me up at 4am.
Did I say how far I ran today? 50.9km.
Just another 230km of desert running left. When I get a bit further south next week it will be over 40 degrees C. Living my dream
